FROTH SCHPOT

SURF TIPZ

2010-01-25T16:04:00.000-08:00

THOSE DANG DINGS

Fixing boards can be a bitch. Here's some easy step by step tips on how to seal up your stick

Lurking behind every wave lies a terror capable of sending chills through every surfer’s bones. For years it has wreaked havoc on surfers across the globe. No one is safe from its horrible grasp, and it can quickly turn a fun day at the beach into a session ending nightmare.

I’m talking about dings.

Surfers take pride in their boards like they were ancient Japanese warriors maintaining the deadly edge of their Samurai swords. Each board is different, and much like the sweet embrace of a newfound lover, their allure can be intoxicating, almost to the point of infatuation. I can remember bringing my new board to sleep with me as a grom, just to be able to wake up with it next to me, reminding me of it’s glorious freshness.

The problem with a new board, or any board for that matter, is that eventually it will get dinged. Whether it’s a run in with a fellow surfer, or a careless blunder of your own doing, like slamming the garage door on it on your way out to surf, that first heartbreaking ding is inevitable. From there on out, the board you once so proudly cleaned and cared for ends up yet another bruised and battered stick in your quiver.

Unlike guys like Kelly Slater, who rides dozens of brand new boards in a year, mere mortals like you and me cannot afford to buy a new board every time we get a ding. Dings come in all shapes and sizes, types and varieties. You’ve got your standard rails cracks, pressure dings, gouges, tail cancer, buckles and breaks, just to name a few.The important thing to note is the longer you let your dings stay open and fester, the more water damage and overall board degradation you should expect. Even the tiniest dings, if left untreated, can waterlog your once cherry Al Merrick Flyer, into a Yellow Submarine.

Some dings --complete breaks, buckles and broken fin boxes-- are extremely difficult to fix on your own, so sometimes it’s best to bite the bullet and leave the tough stuff to the professionals. However, smaller dents, cracks, and punctures can, with the right methods, be quickly fixed by yourself. I recently met up with Ian Hall from B.E Sanding and Ding Repair, a local ding repair master to give you, some step by step instructions on how to apply basic first aid to your injured stick.

Step 1- Assess the damage- The first thing Hall suggest is to check the board to get a picture of how extensive the damage is and what kind of tools and materials you’ll need to get the job done. For example, a rail crack may only require a simple resin glaze, while a puncture or hole may call for a bigger investment in materials.

Step 2- Supplies- Once you have a good idea of what you need, you might have to do a bit of shopping if you don’t already have your supplies. Many supplies such as acetone, tape, gloves, and sandpaper can be purchased at hardware stores such as Home Depot. You’re definitly going to need specific ingredients such as fiberglass, resin, and Q-Cell filler, all of which can be found at Freeline Design and Arrow Surf Shop, both located on 41st ave, in Capitola.

Step 3- Preparation- “Next you’ll want to prep the ding,” says Hall. “You’ll want to make sure the ding is dry and the surface area around the ding is clean and scuffed up with 120 grit sandpaper to create a better bonding surface when applying your fiberglass”. Cut away any damaged glass or foam with a razor blade to make sure that there’s no delamination or soft spots. If left unattended these will remain under your finished product and cause you more trouble down the line.

Step 4- Filler- “Getting your board back to its original shape will be your next goal,” explains Hall. “You start by mixing the Q-Cell filler with resin in a Dixie cup to create a putty to fill the voids”. Remember-the less resin you use, the easier it will be to sand once it dries, which is important when fixing boards at home without high powered electric sanding equipment. Before you start pouring the mixture into the ding, it’s a good idea to use tape to create a reservoir around the ding to avoid making a mess or using to much. Cleanliness is key when planning on hand sanding as it will save you time and energy, and of course clean up time afterwards.

Step 5- Sanding- Once you’ve filled the ding and let it dry, you’ll want to sand until the original shape of the board is obtained. “This takes patience and a careful eye,” says Hall. “Leave the filler slightly below the original surface of the board to leave room for cloth and resin”.

Step 6- Glassing- Now it’s time to apply your fiberglass cloth (4 0z is recommended for most small to medium sized dings). Cut out the desired shape of cloth, usually 2-3 layers will do, and set them aside while you wet the surface of the ding with resin. Now place the layers of cloth over the ding and, using a squeegee, get enough resin on the cloth until it’s completely saturated. Hall suggests using the squeegee to get rid of any excess resin, as again the less resin on the ding, the easier it will be to sand.

Step 7- Hot coat and Finish Sand- After the cloth has dried completely, lightly sand the ding down. Here is where you’ll need to be extra careful because if you sand through the cloth, your repair job won’t be water tight.Now you’re ready to hot coat the ding, which simply means coating it with a final seal cof resin to create a smooth surface. Once this dries your last task is to lightly sand the ding until the desired smoothness is obtained.

Step 8- Your Done! - Admire you’re handiwork and get back on your board and go have some fun.Final note- As I mentioned earlier, some dings are daunting, and if you feel like you’re in over your head, call in professionals like Hall to fix your board for you. For expert ding repair and sanding contact Brian Ebert, owner of B.E Sanding and Ding Repair. 831-325-5487 or www.santacruzdingrepair.com

LOOKING BACK

2010-01-25T15:43:00.000-08:00

A DECADE OF SURF

This surreal image of Laird Hamilton stunned the surf world and inspired a growing contingency of slab hunting tow surfers to go bigger than ever.

As in most things in life, the world of surfing is cyclical, yet within the cycles we see changes. While in the 90’s surfers wouldn’t be caught dead wearing the tight neon board shorts of the 80’s, during the first decade of the new millennium they became cool again. In the 1990’s it was all about the potato chip thin, needle sharp boards popularized by “new school” surfers such as Kelly Slater. Nowadays Slater prefers short, stubby boards that would have been scoffed at ten years earlier.

The retro trends of the 2000’s were for many a nostalgic look into the past for answers to present questions, but for others just another way to look cool at the beach. Surfing is what you make of it. To those who don’t know any better, the trends or shifts in surfing culture simply dictate what size board or color shirt to wear, but for those truly involved, they point towards either making surfing more functional, accessible, and like Kelly’s shift to shorter boards, just more fun.

As we enter this new decade, it will be interesting to see what route the world of surfing will take, and how the memories, events, and trends of past will shape the way we perform and look at our sport. Here are 5 interesting stories and phenomena that capture some of the spirit of the 2000’s.

1) Laird’s Millennium Wave- Photos of Laird Hamilton navigating an enormous barrel at the infamous Tahitian reef known as Teahupo’o surfaced on the web in August 2000, shocking the surf community to the core. Hamilton, a dedicated and well respected waterman, has always pushed the limit, but this one ride was the pinnacle of his career, one that redefined what was thought possible-a monstrous, unbelievable, and surreal looking 25 foot slab that defied imagination.

2) Quiksilvers Young Guns- Funded by Quiksilver a handful of some of the world’s best young surfers, accompanied by Kelly Slater, scoured the Mentawaii island chain off the Coast of Sumatra in Indonesia in search of perfect waves, documenting the action all the while for their highly acclaimed, “Young Guns” surf flicks. On three separate occasions, Slater and a crew of high profile young surfers- guys like Dane Reynolds, Clay Marzo, and Ry Craike, proved themselves as future innovators of the sport, ripping defenseless Indonesian waves with reckless abandon. Helicopters, Jet ski’s, and 5star treatment aboard the luxurious Indies Trader 4 may have cost the surf wear giant a pretty penny, but the series has been a big hit- not only a successful marketing ploy by Quik, but also serving as a great platform for current super stars such as Julian Wilson to showcase their skills to the world.

3) The Slater/ Irons rivalry- The first half of the 2000’s was all about the intense, dramatic, and at times see-saw battle for surfing dominance between Kelly Slater and Andy Irons. Irons, the hardheaded upstart, emerged from the 90’s as a focused, calculating, and cutthroat competitor. In fact, as Irons found his competitive rhythm flower, he became one of the few athletes able to ruffle Slater’s feathers, who had dominated the WCT during the 90’s. As the two squared of in several nail biting world title chases, the surf media fed on the drama and exaggerated it a bit, because it helped sell magazines. As Slater observed to Transwordsurf.com in 2008,“Hype creates great situations in sports. It definitely gets overdone, but it’s also not without merit. There’s a reality to feelings and situations in those places, but it gets fed by the media in a negative way—most often that doesn’t really help you as a person but does help you as a competitor to focus” Recently the two seemed to have squashed the beef by traveling together in a free surf boat trip. Documented in the film entitled, “A Fly in the Champagne”, the trip served as a chance for the two to put aside their differences to travel to Indonesia together to surf as friends.

4) Clark Foam Scare- One man, Gordon “Grubby” Clark, was able singlehandedly to put the surfboard industry on hold when he decided to shut down his surfboard foam business, Clark Foam, in 2005. Controlling a monopoly on polyurethane surfboard foam blanks for decades-quite often through ruthless business tactics-Clark sent a wave of panic through the industry, as the supply of blanks suddenly sent shapers on a quest for alternative sources of foam, which in turn sent up the price of boards through the roof. While Doomsday scenarios of a world without surfboards have been put to rest, many shapers got busy looking for different ways to get their precious foam blanks. While the blank scare raised the prices of boards, the craft actually may have benefited from Clark’s rash decision to cut and run. Now, shapers are not only looking to different sources of foam, they are also introducing new, innovative, and environmentally friendly materials for board production, such as “biofoam”(polyurethane foam made locally with less hazardous materials), sugarcane blanks, and bamboo stringers, just to name a few.

5) Attack of the Groms- During the late 00’s, surf brands began showcasing their mini-me like pro surfers, many of whom had barely reached puberty, in a high percentage of their advertising campaigns. For a time it seemed as though every magazine you leafed through had surfers under the age of 16 on every other page. Rumors of big money contracts put the spotlight on these young rippers. Many of the older, struggling pros grumbled at the new focus on youth, yet the surfing of some of these kids was so impressive that it could not be ignored. Not to be defined simply as tools of the industry, many of these youngsters, including John John Florence, Kolohe Andino, Evan Geisleman, and Santa Cruz’s own Nat Young have proven themselves worthy of the spotlight, in some ways not only keeping up with their elders, but surpassing them. Young has established himself as a distinguished competitor, racking up numerous national titles, a spot on the Gold winning US Team, and even a 4 star WQS victory, right here at his favorite break, Steamer Lane. Andino is hot on Young’s trail, with a recent win at the NSSA Nationals Open Men’s division, and numerous scalpings of veterans of the WQS in the select events he’s entered this year. These kids have been well groomed to chase the dream of a world title, and there’s nothing holding them back. Believe the hype.

SURF SKIING?

2010-01-25T15:22:00.000-08:00

SHREDDING THE LIQUID SLOPES

Cody Clearing a meaty section in Maui

In the world of extreme sports, the hairy edge is getting hairier. It wasn’t’ t enough for motocross demon Travis Pastrana to go careening around tight courses with bone-shaking jumps, he had to redefine himself by driving rally cars, sky diving, and most impressively, flinging himself off a ramp, into the Grand Canyon, armed only with a parachute and pads in a hellish hybridization of Motocross and BASE cliff jumping that could have easily left him deceased. On Youtube, you can find videos of guys SUP’ing down crazy whitewater rapids in the notoriously perilous Gauley River in West Virginia.

How did these thrill seekers decide to combine completely different sports into something entirely new and potentially fatal? How do you make something that is already considered “extreme”, even more incredible? Now we’ve got local extreme skiing legend Cody Townsend taking his alpinethrill ride to the ocean, strapping on skis instead of a surfboard, to shred mountains of water.

Townsend grew up surfing in Santa Cruz just like all the other kids in his childhood neighborhood of Pleasure Point. Unlike most of his peers, however, Townsend had another calling that pulled him away from the surf.

“I was always the weird skier kid that went missing on the weekends heading up to Tahoe” recalls Townsend of his early years. It wasn’t long until Townsend’s skiing skills gained worldwide recognition, earning him numerous competitive titles, as well as high profile roles in freeride ski flicks. All the while, he always stayed true to his surfing roots, moving back to Santa Cruz during the off-season to regain his saltwater fix. Townsend’s love of surfing, what he calls “the yin and yang” of his skiing, was where he first got the idea of combining the two.

“ I got the idea to ski on a wave was when I was about 12 years-old. I distinctly remember carefully watching the waves and realizing that the slope of a wave was similar to the slope of a mountain. From that moment I knew it was possible to ski on a wave,” Townsend said of his initial revelation. While uncertain of how to exactly pull it off, Townsend told himself that one day he would combine his two favorite things on earth, and the idea of skiing on a wave has been in the back of his mind ever since.

This year, Townsend and his good friend Mike Douglas decided to put the theory to test.For the research they took a little bit of information from a couple of people that they had heard about attempting to ski waves. Chuck Patterson, Dave Kalama and Cambell Farrell had given the wave-skiing a go, but from the information they had gathered, they had been pretty unsuccessful. The skis weren't fast enough, the boot/binding system wasn't stiff or safe enough and serious beatings were doled out on most attempts.

After that they headed out to the lakes and towed behind boats on tons of different skis and boot/binding systems. They tried out 4 or 5 boot and binding set-ups and quickly figured out that the typical alpine ski boots and ski binding set-up was the absolute safest and highest performing. For the skis, snow skis ended up being not manageable at all on water, so they had some custom water-skis made for them and utilized called wake skis, which are twin-tipped water skis designed to be ridden wake to wake, on rails or with a winch.

This November, Townsend and Douglas flew to Maui to test out their theory. Townsend chose Maui for it’s legacy of innovation in innovation in ocean sports.

“From Rush Randle to Laird Hamilton, Maui has always been quite open to innovation and since our project was about as far off the wall as it gets it was good to have a community that welcomed us. Plus they've got some pretty good waves.”

After all the testing on lakes they thought they had figured out what would work the best but after getting out into the waves, they realized that the technology for the skis is decades behind anything in surfing. Because of the impossibility of getting into a wave while strapped into the ski’s, Townsend and Douglas used Jet Ski’s to tow them into the surf. What they found was that it was extremely difficult, but thrilling and exciting at the same time. At first, they wanted to ski like a surfer would surf; hitting lips, punting airs, getting barreled.

Ultimately, that proved to be harder to do than it was to imagine. “The skis were much trickier to ride a wave on than I could have imagine. Hard cutbacks and big bottom turns were out of the question. But on the fourth day of riding we did start to figure it out, we did manage to hit the lip and even boost some airs, re-enter the wave and keep going. So although it wasn't as perfect as imagined, we started to touch on the potential”, says Townsend of their initial attempts.

“If I could, I'd scrap every ski we had and redesign everything,” Douglas agrees, “It was a bit of a challenge to pump the wave for speed, like you do on a surfboard, but I think this had more to do with our ski design than just being on two skis”. Furthermore, Douglas adds, “If someone was motivated they could go a long way with it and do some impressive stuff. It would take somebody with some good resources and patience though, because it's definitely not easy to get out there and ski on waves”

Townsend and Douglas tried to take everything they knew about surfing and everything about skiing and combine the technologies to make something work, but in the end it actually took riding on waves to figure out that something entirely different would have to be created to ski on wave with the same level of performance as a surfer. Like Pastrana, who in an interview with Motopress.com called his Grand Canyon moto/BASE jump, “ A quick rush, but it was the best thing in the world”, Townsend and Douglas are simply adrenaline junkies looking for something new to quench their thirst for thrills.

In this case, Townsend wants to make it clear that all he wanted to do is fulfill his childhood dream of combining his two lifelong passions.
“I definitely wanted to say that we have zero intentions of creating a new sport. Logistically it's extremely hard to do, it's far more dangerous than normal surfing and for riding waves isn't as efficient as a surfboard. Ultimately all we wanted to do is see if it was possible. So in my opinion no one has to worry about all of sudden seeing skiers crowding line ups”

COMMUNITY

2010-01-25T14:55:00.000-08:00

SUP? NOT FOR ME

Not as easy as it looks

America, land of the free. A glorious nation where individuals have the right to gorge themselves endlessly on cheap, processed junk passed off as food. In this land of the double cheeseburgers and chili cheese dogs, overweight people of all walks of life are facing a future of health problems, including the many conditions associated with obesity, such as heart disease and diabetes.

As America struggles with their widening waistline’s, it only natural that they turn to Hollywood for weight loss inspiration. The latest craze in the world of health and fitness is the Stand-Up Paddle board, also known as an SUP. Celeb’s such as Jennifer Anniston, Pierce Brosnan, Sandra Bullock, Kate Hudson, and Julia Roberts are just a few examples of high profile actors using SUP’ing to help stay in shape and sculpt a rock hard core. This new health craze is literally “sweeping” the nation.

Stand-Up paddling involves using a large paddle, usually made of aluminum or carbon, to steer and propel a large surf craft that almost resembles a mix between a paddleboard, windsurf board, and surfboard. These boards, which usually begin at about 9’ and can reach lengths of up to 15’. are usually constructed with polyerestene core’s, and protected by glass-reinforced plastic construction which utilizes epoxy. They are quire wide as well about 30 inches, usually weigh 25-30 pounds.

By standing erect and propelling yourself with the kayak-like oar, you can really get these boards going. The trick is finding your balance and learning to switch stances and maneuver your paddle smoothly as you do so. The balance needed to maintain a steady speed and core strength required to turn the board effortlessly is tremendous, and it’s by no means easy.

While the celeb’s have been flocking to the Stand Up Paddle fitness routine in the droves, seasoned watermen haven’t stopped using the method to train and maintain their sea legs. Surf icon Laird Hamilton has helped increase it’s popularity, and big-wave charger Garret McNamara has been known to use the hefty crafts at waves of extreme consequence, such as Oahu’s Pipeline and Tahiti’s Teahupoo.

As the sport grows, so do the crowds, and they are beginning to frequent popular surf spots. With such heavy boards and unwieldy paddles, having Stand-Up Paddlers sharing the lineup with surfers can get a bit treacherous. According to State Lifeguard Blake Anderson, it comes down to making sure those who are enjoying the waves are safe, and for those who are inexperienced and lack proper training, sometimes crowded surf breaks might not be the best place to learn.

“Because of their size, SUP's (like longboards) are not as maneuverable as short boards, so if the user doesn't have a lot of experience they can pose a threat to other water users in tight areas like surf lineups. Also they are very heavy so if someone was to be struck by a board in the water it could do more damage than a traditional short board”, says Anderson of the presence of SUP’s in water populated by surfers and swimmers.

While surfers may have to contend with some dangerous beginning Stand Up Paddlers from time to time, there is a large group of people dedicated to promoting the sport in such a way that the proper etiquette and knowledge can be successfully adopted by those who choose to pursue the sport. Kayak Connection, located next to the Harbor, offers SUP classes, for those interested in staying in shape while enjoying the soothing waters of our beautiful coastline.

They offer 2 hour one time introductory classes as well as two and three part series spread over a few weeks. Each of the classes in a series is 2 hours long. They provide the SUP board and paddle as well as a wet suit, PFD (life jacket), and the experienced instructors, all of whom are CPR/First Aid certified They also offer SUP tours, and they always stress teaching their students all the necessary tools and techniques they’ll need to maintain their skills.

Kayak Connection employee Katrina adds that, “Safety is one of the most important factors we stress. Our paddlers travel in and out of the harbor so it is important to respect the traffic laws of the harbor as well as the general safety rules of the ocean i.e. don't paddle into swim zones, yield to other vessels, etc. We are also very respectful of marine wildlife and always stress keeping the appropriate distance mandated by the Marine Mammal Protection Act at all times”

Pete Stirling, Marketing Manager of Waterman’s sunscreen, is someone who spends his life in the water, surfing, paddling, and from time to time, Stand-Up paddling. His company, Waterman’s sponsor’s some of the top aquatic athletes, studs like Rob Rojas and Chuck Patterson. Stirling believes, like the folks at the Kayak Connection, that misinformation is one of the biggest threat the sport faces as it grows.

“ It’s a cultural problem,” says Stirling, “People with no experience, people who may not be familiar with the ocean, see the SUP’s in the fitness magazine, and then start on rivers and lakes. What’s gonna happens when they paddle out to the ocean, which is raw and unpredictable? Beginners need the proper guidance plain and simple”

For now Stand Up Paddling and it’s enthusiasts are here to stay. Their reach is astounding, with SUP scenes popping up in places like Lake Fulsom and Lake Tahoe. A great workout and according to Santa Cruz Harbormaster Tim Morely, “A great way to get more man powered vessels out in the Monterey Bay”, Stand Up Paddling provides surfers and curious land lubbers a great way to enjoy our local waters without polluting or disturbing our fragile wildlife.

SURF TIPZ

2010-01-25T14:44:00.000-08:00

HOW TO AVOID A BECOMING LUNCH FOR A HUNGRY GREAT WHITE

Every surfer's nightmare

Forget the giant surf and flock of ratings chasing rippers who’ve been shredding our beloved breaks this past week. This year, instead of the heartwarming tale of a local freckled faced prodigy’s career jump starting win, the real story of the O’Neill Coldwater Classic has nothing to do with competition at all. What’s got everyone talking involves a young professional surfer and his first encounter with the baddest local around, the Great White Shark.

This past Thursday, twenty-one year old Eric Geiselman , from New Smyrna Beach, Florida went out free surfing up the coast at Laguna’s, a popular wedge beach break that offers up some fun surf when the waves are small in town. Gieselman, who had a heat the next day, was trying to get a bit of last minute practice in, and was floating on his board when he felt a powerful force smash his board from underneath.

“ I knew it was a shark right away,” recounts Geiselman of his first reaction to the attack. “ The water was swirling and my leg connecting with the thing. It was solid”

The Great White Shark, aka “Whitie”, or “the Man In The Grey Suit”, is perhaps a surfer’s greatest nightmare. Here in the chilly waters of Central California, Great White’s live, reproduce, and eat…a lot. What’s on this hungry hunter’s menu? The staple of this giants menu are Elephant Seals, whose thick blubber and hefty size prove a tasty, filling meal for ‘ol Whitie.

In the past, there have been attacks at Waddell, Davenport, and Scott’s Creek to name a few. The last attack close to Santa Cruz was down in Marina, where twenty-four year old Todd Endris was mauled while surfing. Half Moon Bay surfer Tim West was hit back in 2005 while paddling out to Maverick’s on a small day, but survived with only teeth scrapes on his big-wave gun.

Despite the presence several thousand pound killing machine’s, surfing the assortment of reefs and beach breaks North of Santa Cruz can be extremely rewarding. The waves up north can pack a punch, offering a change of scenery from the weekend crowds of Santa Cruz. When Waddell Creek is overhead and glassy with only a few guys out, sometimes the thought of sharks is the last thing on your mind. Chances are, like Geiselman, you’re going to paddle out no matter what.

So should you worry about being attacked by a shark? Apparently you are more likely to die from a whole range of other things, including toilet related injuries (don t ask), killer bees or, much more likely, being killed in a car crash on the way to the beach. Doctors put more stitches into random cuts on the feet from sharp coral than into shark bites! According to the International Shark Attack File (ISAF), for the years 1959-2008 there were 84 Shark attacks off the coast of California, and 6 fatalities.

When you break the numbers down, it doesn't even sound as scary as swine flu! While these statistics may embolden local surfers who enjoy surfing in areas where sharks frequent, remember that numbers and averages can be deceiving. Before you paddle out to Ano Nuevo island in your Beef Jerky wetsuit with a bloody nose, take a look at these 12 tips to avoid a shark attack

1) Don't tease or entice sharks. (OK, this isn’t’ t rocket science.)

2) Stay out of the water at dawn, dusk, and night, when some species ofsharks may move inshore to feed on fish. Sharks are well equipped tolocate prey even when visibility is poor. (Surfing in the dark is dangerous anyways! What would you’re mother say?)

3) Stay away from dead animals in the water. (Actually this a pretty goodrule regardless of sharks.)

4) Avoid areas where animal, human, or fish waste enter the water.(Sorry, I know that s going to be tough for some of you.)

5) Avoid murky waters, harbor entrances, channels, and steep drop-offs.These areas are frequented by sharks. (Leave the Harbor Mouth to me.).

6) Do not wear high-contrast clothing (orange and yellow are said to berisky colors) or shiny jewelry (which may appear to be like fish scales).Sharks see contrast very well. (In other words, this is yet another reasonnot to wear your pink wetsuit, even if it means you might not get “the shot“)

7) Refrain from excessive splashing. Keep pets, which swim erratically,out of the water. (Unless your pet is a amphibious Rhinoceros. That would be some fight!)

8) Leave the water quickly and calmly if a shark is sighted. (Quickly Iget, but calmly?)

9) If fish or turtles start to behave erratically, leave the water. Theymay be behaving like that because there is a shark in the area. ( Err, wouldn’t worry so much about the turtles around here)

10) If you feel something brush up against you, get out of the water. (Clearly!)

11) Always surf with a buddy (Unless he’s a wave hog.)

12) And make sure you can paddle faster than him. (Better get to the gym!)

COLDWATER CLASSIC '09

2010-01-25T14:34:00.000-08:00

LOCAL TRIALS

Despite slashing his way through the Local Trials, Tyler Smith unfortunately couldn't make it out of his first heat in the Main Event

This year, the O’Neill Coldwater Classic has been elevated to 6* Prime status, meaning an increased purse, more crucial World Qualifying Series points, and an all star cast of big league professional surfers looking to improve their standings and win some cold hard cash. In the past, when the contest was rated lower, there were more slots open for local surfers to compete in the Main Event. Now, not only is tougher for local WQS competitors to attain a seeded spot into the event, there are only two spots available into the round of 128, awarded to the first and second place finishers of the Local Trials finals.

The Local Trials, which ran yesterday morning under tranquil blue skies, gave sixteen local surfers a chance at attaining these two coveted spots in the Main Event. The first heats were hotly contested, and although the incoming Northwest swell was a welcome sight yesterday morning, the high tide conditions left competitors scrambling though the lineup as they tried to pick off the inconsistent set waves.

“I’ve never surfed the Lane like this. All the places we usually surf, like the Point, or the Slot, were definitely not a factor today,” said twenty three year old trialist and Capitola resident, Matthew Myers, “It felt really unfamiliar out there. The waves didn’t really seem to have a lip. It was all about carves and cutbacks”

Despite the tricky conditions, the local surfers showed the visiting pro’s how to make the most of the Lane’s ever changing moods. Locals such as Jimmy Herrick, Omar Etcheverry, and Austin Smith-Ford surfed well in their first heats, advancing to the semi finals where they came up short of making the four man final. Although the tide began drawing out and the waves seemed to be building by the minute, the conditions for the final were extremely difficult.

Locals Matt Myers, Bud Freitas, Tyler Smith, and Brandon Barnes overcame the bump and managed to put together some good scores. Barnes, a nineteen year old Aptos resident received a bye into the event when Peter Mel, who was slated to compete in the Trials, decided to hold out in hoped of attaining an alternate spot in the Main Event. Despite linking together a few nice rides, Barnes was unable to keep his momentum going in the thirty five minute final.

“I didn’t think I was gonna even get in the Trials, but I did and even though I didn’t make the Main Event I’m stoked to get a chance to compete,” said Barnes of his run in the Trials.

In the end, it was the Westside’s own Tyler Smith, who stole the show using his local knowledge to pick off a number of excellent rides, negotiating the Lane’s bumpy walls with a smooth and precise backhand attack.

“ I haven’t been surfing that much lately but it felt good to win,” recounts Smith of his performance in the Trials. “Some of those heats were wave catching contest, When the waves came through it was fun, but today wasn’t the best direction for the Lane”

Bud Freitas used his powerful technique to take 2nd place, securing himself a spot in the Main Event along with Smith, while Barnes and Myers got sent home packing. As the day progressed, the tide drew out and the surf started pumping, with an uncharacteristically warm November sun leaving spectators wishing they were cooling off in the chilly emerald green water along with the competitors. The first fourteen Round of 128 heats were completed, and right out of the Local Trials, Smith and Freitas were thrown back into the contest singlet to bring their game to the host of hungry international adversaries.

Unfortunately, neither Smith or Freitas were able to advance from their respective heats. For Smith, the result is bittersweet, going from victory to defeat in a matter of hours.

“ I’m out of practice and it was hard to surf three heats in the Trials and then go straight into another one in the Main Event. It was pretty mushy out there and I guess I just ran out of gas,” said Smith of the end of his streak.

Freitas experiences a major upset in his heat against Ricky Whitlock, Ryan Arther, and Stuart Kennedy. Having made the semi-finals last year, he was a major favorite coming into this year’s event. With his vicious forehand snaps and smooth, swooping cutbacks, Freitas is a constant standout at the Lane, and his early round loss this year shows just how tough the event has become with it’s 6* Prime rating.

“I wish it didn’t happen that way,” said Freitas of his loss. “ I gotta just look forward to next year when I can give it another shot. Now I’m hoping to see one of my friends take it. I’d actually really like to see Ratboy win the thing”

The only local surfer to advance today was Noi Kaulukukui, whose last minute heroics got him the scores to advance into the Round of 96, where he’ll face last years champion and the pride of the Westside, Nat Young. Other local surfers yet to surf in the event include Kieran Horn and Jason “Ratboy” Collins, who will surf tomorrow as the last two heats of the Round of 128 are completed and Round of 96 commences. Get down to the Lane to check out the action or log onto www.coldwaterclassic.net for the Live Webcast.

INSIGHT

2010-01-25T13:47:00.000-08:00

TIM WEST ON MAVERICKS

Tim's a nice guy, but he likes to put the hurt on waves, like this insider @ Mav's

All over the world, there are natural wonders which seem to radiate mystical energy and raw power, places that command awe and demand respect. Mt. Everest. The Amazon. The Artic. Victoria Falls. At places like these, one sight can leave you breathless, and one false move can leave you dead. Despite the risks, there are always some brave (or crazy, you decide) individuals willing to risk their lives by putting themselves at the mercy of Mother Nature’s nastiest conditions.

More often than not, it’s the locals who have the most experience and in-depth knowledge of what it takes to survive such endeavors. Here in Central California, we’ve got our own extreme natural wonder, and it’s a doozy. Located in Half Moon Bay, the colossus known as Maverick’s is a surf spot that almost shouldn’t be surfed. The waves at Maverick break violently over treacherous reef, deadly displays of power that seem to rock the entire ocean.

Every winter, giant swells unload over the craggy rocks, and every winter there are dozens of big-wave enthusiasts ready to take a stab at conquering one of the murderous, yet intoxicatingly thrilling set waves. Over the years, there’s been a crew of Half Moon Bay locals who have dedicated their lives to surfing their beloved home break, and in the process have become some of the most skilled, wave-savvy surfers in the lineup. Guys like Ion Banner and Travis Payne from Pacifica.

Much like the Hawaiians of Oahu’s North Shore or the Balinese, these local surfers have to accommodate a seasonal circus of big name visiting pros, intense media coverage, and high profile contests, which bring increased attention and crowds to their beloved break every year. This year, the drama and hype surrounding the yearly Maverick’s surf contest has reached an all time fever pitch. Petty politics and concerns over increased corporate involvement have overshadowed the real reasons why the contest is so special.

Rather than dwell on the negative, I thought I’d catch up with Half Moon Bay local and Maverick’s standout, Tim West Jr., to ask him a few questions about the wave, the event, and what it means to be a local Maverick’s surfer.

Tim, When did you first hear of the wave out at Maverick’s? What was it like surfing it for the first time?
I heard about Mavericks in the early 90's when photos were first being published in surf magazines. One stormy day riding home on the school bus in 6th grade I'll never forget seeing a huge wave breaking out there and that’s how I figured out where it was. When I first paddled out it was such a memorable experience. The amount of water focusing in one spot was like no other wave I'd ever surfed before. There were only 4 guys out on a picture perfect day. It was such an accomplishment for me to make the paddle out because I had been working up to it for so long. I went for the first left that came my way and paid my dues right away. A very memorable day for sure.

Who are some of the local standouts who you’ve looked up to throughout your career?
Well there are a lot of local standouts that have charged Mav’s who stay on the underground like Ion Banner, Jim Tjogas, Tony Canadas, Curt Myers, Alan Nelson, Steve Dwyer, and Mike Kimsey, who inspired me to try surfing the place when I was growing up. These are the kind of local surfers who not only take the time to give you knowledge of how to surf the wave, but also go out of their way to find you a board to surf and make the paddle with you to the peak. Over the years of surfing I've met so many people from around the world who come to surf here and every one of them has influenced me in one way or another. Jay Moriarty definitely tops the list because he charged huge waves with a positive attitude in and out of the water.

What does it mean to be a local contestant in the Maverick’s contest? Do you feel the local contingency is fairly represented in the event?
It is an honor to be in the contest. I've looked up to Ion Banner all my life for being the local Maverick’s charger all of my life, and to be in the same lineup with him is a dream come true. There are a lot of locals in the area who have their feet deeply rooted in the sand here. The support they give is very motivating and pushes us to charge harder each session. I feel that there should always be a local surfer in the contest, even when Ion and I get too old to paddle out. This year we have about fifteen to twenty surfers from the area who are in the lineup stepping it up each session and a bunch of groms at the jetty who are definitely going to be out there one day. The future looks solid for the local contingency in the lineup at Mav’s. I'm always going to reflect he teachings I've learned from my mentors and share it with them.

What does it feel like to share home break with the top big wave surfers in the world? How does this push you and your fellow competitors?
I'm stoked to share the peak with visiting surfers who bring respect to the lineup. Surfing with guys like Greg Long, Al Mennie, Grant Baker, Jamie Sterling, pushes me to surf on that level. Just about every big wave surf spot in the world is represented out there. So its cool talking with them about their waves and getting the chance to go visit other big wave arenas worldwide. What tops it all off is the friends I've gained from surfing Mavericks over the years. A wave may last 10 seconds but a friendship lasts a lifetime.

How would you like to see the future of the Maverick’s competition?
I would like to see the Maverick’s competition be seen as a positive event for the surfing community worldwide and just as respected as the Eddie at Waimea Bay. It should represent how the local crew would like the surfing community to see it, which is as a respected heavy big wave that holds a contest full of surfers passionate about the ocean and the local community surrounding it. Just about every surfer in the lineup is out there from day one because they have a passion to surf big waves and push their own limits. Thirty nine surfers would then chosen to be on the contest list for being standouts in and out of the water. That’s how I envision the contest through my eyes.

SKIM

2010-01-23T20:09:00.000-08:00

SENSELESS SKIM FEST

Contest director Ryan Parola slaps a lil wedge silly. photo-Debi Parola

Wintertime in Santa Cruz provides surfers powerful North swells with chilly, raw, and sometimes downright heavy surf. As the days shorten and become darker, hardcore surf enthusiasts are rewarded with perfect sandbars and juicy waves.

It is these winter months that Santa Cruz surfers live for, and despite the occasional summer time south, it’s during this season that they get the majority of their surfing fix. There’s a different breed of resident wave riders however, who long for the summer months of sun, steep beaches, warm water, and high tide wedges.

As opposed to surfers, who paddle their way into waves, these athletes actually run at the waves, chasing them down like amphibious track stars. Skimboarders, as they’re known, prefer the mellow waves found during the summer and can be seen in dense packs at just about every beach with shorepound in town.

Despite a huge local skim scene, there aren’t many events to allow the area’s talent to show off their stuff. Back in Aug, 2001, Santa Cruz skimmers Ryan Parola, Timmy Hunt, Dan Turner, and Jesse Beer, began meeting at Paula’s Restaurant every Friday morning, hoping to brainstorm ideas for a successful local skim contest. As a result of these meetings, the Senseless Skimfest was born. By organizing the event, which they chose to run at the skimmer friendly shores of 26th avenue beach, they hoped to provide local skimboarders with a chance to compete in a fun, low pressure event, and enjoy a nice day at the beach with their friends and family in the process.

“ We saw the lack of local contests and we thought that we could do something about it. It started out just as an idea among friends, and kind of just took off from there”, reflects Parola on the birth of the Skimfest.

The contest began as a grass-roots, do it yourself style affair with a mellow crowd and only twenty competitors. Now in it’s ninth year, however, the contest has grown dramatically. Last year, along with increased sponsors and prizes, the event drew fifty five competitors and hundreds of spectators.

Now in it’s ninth year, the Skimfest is looking to be bigger than ever. Set to take place on Saturday, August 22nd, the event will draw the area’s best local professional and amateur skimboarders. Amateur divisions include: 17-under, 18-25, 26-and up, as well as an open women’s division. The Pro division is all ages and features such local talent as Ben K, Chris Alreck, Geoff Hughins, Corey Ryan, Jesse Helm, and Gary Velo, just to name a few.

Parola, the Skimfest is a labor of love, an event he devotes endless hours towards planning, organizing, and facilitating. As contest director, he’s responsible for a number of duties, yet relies on a devoted crew of volunteers to help keep things running smoothly. This year, he’s enlisted help from two of Santa Cruz’s most well respected skimboard legends, Chris “Chappy” Chapman, and Josh “Skimpy” Evenson, who will lend their expertise as announcers.

“ I’m honored and thrilled to have these guys helping out at the event,” says Parola of the addition of Chapman and Evenson to the Skimfest. “ It’s good to see them back in the scene, and I’m stoked to have them be a part of the contest”.

New to the Skimfest this year is the incorporation of solar powered energy. Independent Energy systems is bringing their solar power trailer down to the beach to power the event. By utilizing solar power, Parola hopes to reduce the event’s carbon footprint as well as inspire people to think Green. The contest’s other sponsors include: Surftech, Roush Creations, California Grown, Ocean Native, Debbie Parola Photography, 831 Media, Ocean Minded, Dakine, and Reckless. All competitors receive an original Senseless Skimfest T-shirt, designed by renowned local artist FJ Anderson, as well as lunch provided by Aloha Island Grille.

Whether you’re an upstart skim whiz looking for a chance to show your stuff, or a extreme sports loving beach enthusiast looking for some exciting entertainment, head down to 26th next weekend, the action is sure to leave you Senseless.
What-9th annual Senseless SkimfestWhere- 26th avenue beach, Santa CruzWho- Pro division-all ages17-under18-2526-and upWomen’s OpenWhen- Saturday, August 22nd

PHILOSURFER

2010-01-20T16:07:00.000-08:00

DAWN OF THE DONKEYS

ARGHHHH UGHHHH

No one is safe. Like the hordes of brain devouring zombies in George Romero's cult classic, Night of the Living Dead, they seem to flow froman incessant stream of pure evil. They move without coordination, mindless creatures who appear like you and me, yet seem to be unconscious of their surroundings, driven by a desire to have a piece of that which you hold so dear. No, I'm not talking about your brains. They want your waves.

Nothing compares to the sheer terror of taking off on an oily, head high set at your favorite break, only to see a path littered with turtle turning trolls and fat floundering funboarders. Have you ever been bludgeoned by a 50 pound stray stand up paddleboard? Does fearing for your life over three times within a two and a half hour time frame sound like fun to you? Personally, sometimes I'd rather face an undead army of ghouls than go surfing in Santa Cruz during the summertime.

Kooks are taking over our lineups and no one is safe. What can you do about it, you ask? Well I'll tell you. You must shoot these demons in the head, and vanquish their corrupted souls to the underworld from which they came. Eh,wait a second. Scratch that. All joking aside, it seems there's no way to combat the legions of kooks who swarm our beaches, clog our lineups,and ruin our sessions.

Before you despair, there are two things to think about that may help your troubled mind. First of all, remember back to the time when you surfed for the first time. Remember how much excitement and happiness you experienced during those first few waves. Isn't that feeling of joy the same thing which draws people to surfing in the first place? Who are we to withhold this pleasure from others?

For every poser or wannabe surfing for the wrong reasons, there are ten who are simply doing it for the chance to partake in the surreal, ethereal moments of bliss experienced while gliding across a moving, liquid canvas. Second, think about all the untapped breaks going unridden all over the world.The fact is that if packed lineups are keeping you from enjoying surfing, go search! Think how all the world's current surf destinations were discovered. Surfers became unsatisfied with their usual spots, grabbed maps, and went on the hunt. Sure, surfing is be an extremely independent, personal activity, yet life is too short to get worked up over something that is inevitable. Besides, surfers these days are too lazy, we need a challenge like donkey dodging to keep us sharp.

FITNESS

2010-01-20T15:55:00.000-08:00

GET RIPPED TO RIP!

update- Tyler is teaching a new class at the Santa Cruz Chi Center...check it!

Modern surfing is a physically demanding sport. Long gone are the days of relaxed nose riding and tranquil trimming. These days surfing has entered the realm of the extreme, with surfers putting their bodies at the mercy of sixty foot waves and altitude altering aerials. The consequences involved in surfing in such perilous conditions and attempting such merciless maneuvers can be extremely dangerous, sometimes even fatal.

To prepare their bodies for such abuse, today’s top pro’s are engaging in hardcore training programs designed to enhance power, endurance, flexibility, and lung capacity, just to name a few. WCT world title contenders like Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson have both adopted intense training regimens that include core strengthening, strict diets, personal trainers, and coaches. Australian maniac Mark Visser takes his preparation to the next level with his big wave breath holding drills. Visser blows out all his air, sits at the bottom of a pool for a minute and thirty seconds, and then swims fifty meters underwater without flippers.

With Mavericks nearby and a variety of high energy waves of consequence in and around Santa Cruz, the surfers of our area are generally a tough breed. However, unlike places like Southern California and Hawaii, where surfers train together, there’s no organized effort to keep Santa Cruz surfers fit.

Aptos big wave surfer Tyler Fox has been busy the past few years chasing some of the largest waves ever ridden on the California coast. The twenty-eight year old has tackled a few of the biggest waves surfed at the treacherous break known as Ghost Tree’s, which detonates just off the Pebble Beach golf course only during the largest swells of the year. Fox is also and up and coming Mavericks surfer, one of the few brave souls who charge the unforgiving slabs on their backhand, which is no easy feat.

About a year ago, Fox began training on his own using a method called Surf Specific Training, which focuses on enhancing balance, stamina, strength, coordination, and explosive strength.

“ I started using these various techniques and got great results. I figured it would be cool to use my newfound know-how to run training drills for local surfers interested in improving their surfing”, says Fox.

Fox began talks with Scott Adams, a personal trainer and co-owner of SurfStronger.com, a surfing fitness website. They decided to combine their respective talents and knowledge to create an outlet for local surfers to improve not only their surfing ability, but overall fitness level. They began running Surf Specific Training workouts, with participants meeting twice a week at 26th avenue beach. From there they start with a warm up jog, and then get into an assortment of one and two footed balance drills, which help with core strength and coordination. They mix in different leg strength exercises such as squat jumps, which increases a surfer’s drive and explosiveness during radical maneuvers. Paddle drills and depth checks follow, which builds endurance and lung capacity. Balancing and coordination exercises conclude the workout, followed by a cool down jog and light stretch.

Darshan Gooch, 28, of Santa Cruz says that he’s, “… found a new sense of confidence through doing these workouts. Even after the first workout I noticed greater stability, balance, and stamina. I really enjoy the fact that we are teamed up with a partner and pushing each other in a positive manner, it's quite fun”.

Camaraderie and cooperation forces surfers, who are primarily independent creatures, to work together and push each other. Additionally, whipping the area’s young pro’s and slouching veterans will only push the area’s already high level of talent even further. Fox hopes that his program will help achieve these objectives. “One of our primary goals is to give kids an opportunity to maximize their potential in and out of the water. These exercises not only build strength, they build confidence” Surf Specific Training with Tyler Fox and Scott Adams meets Monday and Wednesday from 6:00 to 7:00 PM at 26th avenue beach. Contact Tyler at tyfx@aol.com, or Scott at scott@surfstronger.com. Sessions cost $15 and space is limited.

SURF NEWZ

2010-01-20T15:33:00.000-08:00

KELLY SLATER AND ESPN... "REBEL YELL"

Slates, all lubed up and ready to slide into a new era of professional surfing

Sometimes watching surf contests puts me to sleep. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a huge fan of competitive surfing and always keep up with the ratings, webcasts, and title races, yet I get the feeling sometimes that there is something fundamentally wrong with the existing system. During most World Championship Tour events, spectators are expected to remain engaged as competitors bob in the lineup for thirty-five minutes at a time, completely at the mercy of the ocean and Mother Nature.

As all surfers know, with the ocean and its unpredictable nature, it’s either on, or it’s off. Scoring perfect waves is an art that intrepid wave junkies invest endless hours, dollars, and time into. How can the ASP expect to consistently deliver when set waiting periods limit the chance of running heats in pumping surf?

Another aspect of the current WCT tour that leaves fans hungry for more is the sheer number of surfers on tour. At times it feels like not all the surfers on the top 45 should be there, and this poses a problem for those hoping to witness high caliber, progressive surfing. While waiting to watch the explosive act of Dane Reynolds, spectators may be forced to sit through hours of comparatively average surfing by lower ranked competitors. It seems that lovers of high octane competitive surfing may be in for a welcome change.

ESPN, kingpin of the sports broadcasting world have been in talks with the head honcho of modern surfing, Kelly Slater, brainstorming ideas for a new, alternate, and hopefully, fresh twist on the current system. Coined the “rebel tour” by the surf media , not much is known yet about the details, but some interesting rumors and whisperings have surfaced. Among the changes proposed include: a tighter tour allowing only16 surfers on at a time, eight events over a five-month season, and an individual event prize pool of $1.5 million. There are also rumors swirling involving increased involvement and funding from large corporations outside the surf industry.

According to an article on Australian surf website, stabmag.com, Kelly doesn’t plan on selling out completely. “I don’t want it be like NASCAR, with everyone all covered in sponsors,” Stab reports Kelly saying during a freesurf at Jeffrey’s Bay, South Africa. While the extent of the impact on surfing’s commercial profile is uncertain, it seems some major players in the surf industry are behind the push. Bob Hurley, owner of Hurley International, recently put up $105,000 for the first place winner of the Hurley Pro WCT event at Lower Trestles and was heard on the live webcast endorsing bringing large companies like Sony and Toyota into the mix.

Increased prize money and funding, coupled with an ultra elite top 16, would surely revolutionize the sport and make surfing more palatable to the general public. Furthermore, the best surfers on earth would finally earn the big bucks they deserve. If golfers can make millions for swinging a club, surfers should be paid similarly for charging bone shattering second reef Pipeline. The one issue that remains involves the qualification system. Currently, the WCT tour consists of 45 competitors, and the qualifying tour, known as the WQS, consists of thousands of hungry upstarts. If a top 16 tour was implemented, what would happen to the remaining 29?

To some this new tour may seem elitist, only making the nearly impossible dream of making the big leagues that much harder. Local WQS competitors like Nat Young don’t know quite what to make of it all.

“I think It's a great idea if you are one of those 16 guys,” says Nat.

“The question is how do you get picked?” Nat’s right. How will the new breed of surfing top dogs be decided? It seems that details such as these have yet to be sorted out, but still, it seems that change is in the air, and to those frustrated with the current state of affairs, talk of the Super Tour is a welcome change.“ I think it would be cool,” says twenty one year old local WQS competitor Austin Smith Ford.“ The new elite tour would make things more prestigious. Get rid of the bottom half of guys who just seem to be scraping by, and consistently pit all the top guys against each other. I think it would make things more exciting and entertaining for sure”. Whatever happens, it seems that surfing is ready for a change. One can only hope that the future of the sport is decided by real surfers with noble intentions, not greedy company executives looking to exploit our classic and beautiful sport.

THIS ONE'S FOR YOU KIDDO

2010-01-18T16:13:00.000-08:00

AR GIVES BACK

That's one stoked grommet!

Long time professional surfer Adam Replogle is going back to his roots. Replogle, who has earned respect and cash tearing up helpless waves all over the globe, has reached a new point in his career, one that excites him more than being spat out of a giant tube, or leaning into one of his signature “kill” hacks.

This time around, what really gets him jazzed is spreading the stoke to the area’s youth. Replogle can still be found out at Pleasure Point ripping just like the old days, but your more likely to see him cruising Capitola with his wife and two young daughters. Just like her dad did when he was just a little fella, five year old Mackenzie now goes to Soquel Elementary. With his daughter now a kindgardener and her little sister not far off, Replogle felt it was a perfect time to start getting involved with the local schools and give back in any way he could.

“ It started with my neighbor asking me to donate some surf gear to the Main Street School Raffle. I hooked them up a little package deal with a surfboard, shades, thongs, shirt, and leash and it ended up raising $500”, said Replogle, reflecting on his first foray into donating to the area’s local schools. “ From there it just snowballed”, he recalls, and since then he has given away hundreds of dollars worth of equipment and swag to a number of causes.

He’s donated another surfboard prize pack to Soquel High through Save Our Sports, a surfboard to Harbor High, and most recently a new surfboard to the Santa Cruz State Junior Lifeguard Program’s Raffle. Junior Lifeguard Coordinator Bethany Cleland praises Replogle for his generosity.

“We were so stoked to have Adam’s board a part of the raffle! Sometimes it can be like pulling teeth to get donations sometimes but Adam was so cool he just said ‘How can I help the kids?’, and that was that”

For Replogle the decision to help is easy. As a youngster, he went to all the public schools himself, and now that he’s a family man he’s found the perfect opportunity to give back. Using his influence within the surfing community and with a little help from his sponsors he hopes to do what he can to give back in these times of need and “support programs funded by non profits that are hurting”. It’s no secret that our school’s athletic programs are facing extinction these days. Volunteers and philanthropists have always kept these programs alive so it’s nice to see a successful local athlete pitching in. If you have any old or unused sports gear do your part to help out and donate it to one of your area’s local athletics programs.

ECO ECHOES

2010-01-18T15:58:00.000-08:00

DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR MONEY'S GOING?

Kyle Thiermann, Chile-photo Ryan Craig

Every single day, surf tourists from all over the world arrive in droves to exotic locales, hoping to score some of the dreamy waves they’ve been drooling over in the latest surf magazines and movies. These visitors come for a week or two, get their fill of fun and adventure, and then ship out, back home to their 9-5 jobs and crappy, waist high beachbreak. While surf tourism provides local economies with valuable income, many times these receiving communities aren’t being protected and preserved for future generations to enjoy.

Many destinations that surfers visit are in struggling, third world countries, who, despite having pristine coastlines with an abundance of perfect surf and diverse wildlife, don’t have it together enough to properly take care of their fragile environment. Corrupt governments, lax environmental laws, and uneducated local communities are just some of the challenges that these natural resources face. Subsequently, coral reefs are dwindling, oceans polluted, rare species threatened, and entire ecosytems put in mortal danger.

While we may not think about it too much, surf tourists, it could be argued, have more at stake than anyone when it comes to giving back to the places that have given us so many magical and unforgettable experiences. Isn’t it only right that we do what we can to help these threatened coastlines?

Santa Cruz’s Kyle Thiermann is a good example of a surfer who is using his voice to raise awareness regarding the destructive effects of a proposed coal power plant off the coast of Chile, in South America, which also happens to have some of the best surf in the world. Earlier this year, Kyle travelled with local photographer Ryan “Chachi” Craig to the town of Constitucion, Chile, a fishing community where a proposed coal power plant is threatening the area’s valuable resources.

During their trip, Kyle and Ryan interviewed the locals, asking them what they thought of the proposal, and how they believe it will affect their lives. “Across the board, the community was fiercely against the proposed plant”, says Kyle regarding the positions he encountered doing his interviews. In his interviews, the primary concerns revolved around the detrimental affects that the coal power plant poses, if in fact it is built.

Coal power plants create the largest source of mercury contamination worldwide, which would not only affect the local fishing economy, but the health of the people within the community itself So how is it that someone could get involved in protecting somewhere threatened by dirty industries?

With Kyle, it started with a little bit of research. “I did some research on the coal company, AES-Jenner, and found that such projects can’t go forward without funding from large banks”. Kyle produced a short Youtube video, in which, along with the interviews with the Constitucion community, clearly lays out how large banks use your money to fund projects such as AES-Jenner’s coal plant proposal in Chile, and shows how you, yourself, have the power to stop destructive projects simply by choosing what banks you put your money into. Instead of investing in large banks such as Bank of America, which happens to fund projects by AES-Jenner, Kyle urges concerned citizens to invest their money with local banks, who fund local projects that strengthen your own community.

ARTSY FARTSY

2010-01-18T15:49:00.000-08:00

Revisiting Artist FJ Anderson

The visions one beholds while surfing are unforgettable. Throwing lips, of all shades of green and blue, pitch their curtains in stunning displays of form and beauty. Peering into the vortex of a barreling wave, one can't help but become mesmerized by the sight. Sunlit spray hanging in the air like shining sequins. Cascading walls of emerald energy meeting abruptly in an explosive union. Being so close to the power of Mother Nature is exhilarating, and these moments have the power to burn themselves into one’s imagination forever.

These are the scenes that young artist FJ Anderson lives for, and hopes to share with those who can’t get out in the water to see for themselves. FJ, a 24 year old aspiring artist and lifetime Live Oak resident has been creating large scale wave paintings that brings the viewer up-close-and-personal with the waves that pound our coastline. His art has a way of transporting you right into the thick of the action. One painting could take you deep inside the guts of a massive, tubing wave, while another could put you directly underneath an oncoming lip, creating the dizzying feel of liquid vertigo.

Growing up a stone’s throw away from Sunny Cove beach on Santa Cruz’s East Side, Anderson enjoyed a youth greatly influenced by the ocean. Prowling the tide pools for sea life with his trusty dog Suki, fishing off the cliffs, Junior Life Guards at Twin Lakes Beach, and swimming are some of the ocean inspired activities that took up a great deal of his time. In these childhood years, where the ocean and beach seemed to be just about everything, another interest was sparked in young FJ’s subconscious.

Largely due to a supportive push by his watercolor painting grandmother, FJ began his lifelong obsession with art. Not long after he could walk, he was drawing, painting, and creating with clay. When he entered 6th grade at Shoreline Middle school, FJ’s training took a more structured course. It was in these elective art classes that his real passion began to take form into something more serious. He credits his teacher, Mark Marengo, with facilitating and nurturing this passion.

“ Marengo used to show us slides of his past student’s best works, and seeing the stuff produced by kids just like me, really inspired me to push myself to my full potential”, FJ reminisces of his early training as a student of art. It was these early years that FJ developed his signature style, which focuses on photo real depictions of the natural world and it’s inhabitants. FJ continued this focus throughout his formal schooling, working diligently towards his BA in Fine Arts at UCSC, and most recently, a Masters Certificate in Scientific Illustration from UC Extension. These days FJ has been focusing on his wave paintings.

The paintings themselves are quite large, sometimes reaching lengths of 4’X 9’. His medium of choice is oil paint on canvas or masonite. The paintings usually incorporate perspectives not seen by those simply looking at the waves from the cliffs. He actually pits the viewer in the place of a surfer paddling out or a swimmer ducking under waves. By focusing on this perspective, he aims to give people access to a view they may never have had the opportunity to experience. “ It’s all about that one frozen moment in time, a moment that will never happen again. No two moments are the same, and the same could be said for waves,” remarks FJ on the theme behind his current work. “ The lighting, shapes, colors, atmosphere, mood, and feel of waves is always changing and shifting, and that’s the experience I want to convey with my art”. Currently, FJ is preparing for a journey to New Zealand in the Fall to work as an intern for the New Zealand Marine Studies Center. Here he hopes to gain some valuable work experience, produce some art, and of course put in some valuable time doing “field work” in the regions quality surf. If your interested in purchasing or seeing more of his art, check out his website, at www.fjartwork.com.

HOMETOWN HERO

2010-01-18T14:48:00.000-08:00

CHIT CHAT W. NAT

natty - http://www.norcalsurfers.com/

It’s been quite awhile since Santa Cruz has had a hometown hero with the talent and drive needed to make it big on the world stage of professional surfing. The last Santa Cruz surfer to compete on the ASP’s World Championship was Adam Replogle back in ‘98, and since then, there has yet to be another local surfer with the chops to qualify for the elite tour. After a decade long drought, it seems now that we may finally a young surfer who’s got that special something. If you haven’t heard of Nat Young by now, it’s time to free yourself from the subterranean bomb shelter that you’ve been trapped in the past four years. Nat’s list of accomplishments includes: Coldwater Classic Pro Junior champ, Coldwater Classic Pro champ, NSSA National champ, North American Rip Curl Gromsearch champ, US Team member, etc. With strong support from his sponsors and family, along with solid backing from the Santa Cruz surfing community, Nat has taken his polished, lightening quick attack to the shores of Europe, Brazil, Indonesia, Australia, Mexico, and beyond. Earlier this year, Nat won the Arnette Pro Junior at Newport Beach, and just last week he placed 4th in Pro Junior division of the spectacle known as the Hurley US Open in Huntington Beach. Now Nat is hanging out at Playa Hermosa in Costa Rica, preparing for his round one heat in the Billabong ISA World Games, which brings the nations of the world together to compete against each other for the pride of their countries. Yesterday, I caught up with Nat to pick his brain on competing, traveling, and his plans for the future.

Congrats on placing in the final in the Pro Junior at Huntington. Describe how it felt to surf in such a huge contest, in front of so many fans and spectators? Does the crowd add to the nerves?
It's pretty weird surfing in front of so many people. It's even hard to run down to the water before your heat because there are people everywhere. I would say that when it is small you really feel the crowd more than when it is big, when it's small you're pretty much in an arena because there are people lining the pier and the beach. When it's big there’s just as many people, but you don’t feel it as much because your so far out and constantly moving, and you don’t hear them as much. And yes I definitely get a little nervous, but I try to block it out as much as possible.

It seems as though you've won everything. What's left for you to accomplish before you attack the big leagues head on? How do you envision yourself making the transition?
I definitely haven't won everything. I have this year and two more years in the junior and I want to win worlds in Narrabeen. Then, the next step is to start winning more QS events and qualify for the CT.

Your quite the busy man. Your passport has got to be maxed out by now. Does it ever feel like your living out of your suitcase? Do you miss home ever?
I just got a new passport so it's not quite maxed out yet. And yeah I do feel like I’m living out of my suitcase. I usually come back to California for a couple days before I go on my next trip. Not always to Santa Cruz, usually to LA. Sometimes I miss home. I always look forward to coming home. If there's no waves, then it gets boring sometimes. But it's good to come home and relax a little.

Throughout your travels and competitive career you've had the chance to hang out with, and make friends with some of the most progressive and high profile surfers in the world. Does this exposure to top notch talent help your own game? Who in particular do you like surfing with the most, and who pushes you the hardest?
Surfing with better surfers definitely brings out the best in me. I recently went on a trip with Owen Wright and he was amazing to watch and he's a super cool kid. I also like surfing with kids like Dillon Perillo, Kolohe Andino, Evan Geiselman, And Luke Davis. They all rip and it's cool to surf with them and see what they're doing.

Your in Costa Rica for the World Games. Tell me about the vibe down there. How is the surf? What's your game plan for the contest? The vibe in Costa Rica is very friendly. All the teams are super friendly, and everyone on our team is very cool as well. The surf has been fun but pretty crowded since everyone is here for the contest. My plan for this contest is like any other contest, I’m gonna try my hardest to win.

note-Nat and the US Team went on to win Gold at the World Games

SCARE TACTICS

2009-12-29T11:00:00.000-08:00

TRAVEL, AND DIE!

swine flu? Not here in Puerto! photo-www.rpmsurfer.com

Around the world, tourism is fueled by the existence of local areas of interest. Generally, tourists are lured by specific establishments or attractions when it comes to deciding on a location: restaurants, historical monuments, museums, natural wonders, etc, For traveling surfers, the attraction is simple, and that is the existence of accessible, quality waves.

From Bali to Costa Rica, entire communities have popped up seemingly overnight, thriving economies that owe most of their success to the reefs and river mouths that sculpt the waves that break on their shores. If the waves are good out front, surfers are going to want to do their business (eating, sleeping, resting, bathing, shopping, playing, and so on) as close to that break as possible. No matter how backward or third world the culture, local residents will eventually catch on to their good fortune, and create the necessary means to cash in on their local treasure. Its just like that old cheesy Kevin Costner movie, “If you build it they will come…”

Come they do, and in droves. Surfing has grown into an international sport practiced just about anywhere waves break. From the Amazon River to the Gaza Strip, people are going to the ends of the Earth to find uncrowded surf. Local economies reliant on surf tourism are growing rapidly, bringing much needed economic stimulation to regions that need it bad. Sometimes, however, events unfold that can lead these surfers to stay at home instead. In October 2002, the surf rich island of Bali was the victim of gruesome terrorist attacks on two of their most popular night clubs.

The bombs, which ripped through downtown Kuta Beach, killed 182 and injured hundreds. Among the local Indonesian deaths, scores of Australian surfers on holiday were killed in the atrocious acts of hate. Adding to the already tense, post 9-11 atmosphere of travel trepidation, this unthinkable tragedy nearly crippled the islands economy. From taxi drivers to hotel owners, everyone felt the sting, and it took a couple years for surfers to come back in significant numbers and the local economy to recover.

Before I left on my month long excursion to Puerto Escondido, in Oaxaca, Mexico, I was warned repeatedly not to go. Who was it that was so concerned with my safety? Why it was Fox News, Hillary Clinton, and even the pharmacist at Costco, who wished me luck with the “drug cartels and murderers”. Well isn’t that just pleasant.

With the deadly Swine Flu still at large, Hillary and the FDC didn’t think I should go at all, but the caring folks at Fox conveniently had 10 tips that I could use to protect myself, like, for example, “avoiding rubbing or touching your eyes and nose”. Right, I thought to myself. I wonder if they think I should surf wearing a blue surgical mask(or yellow kitchen glove a la Chris Ward) while I surf?

Despite heartfelt advice from the media, the government, and a complete stranger, I decided to go ahead with my trip. In reality, the odds of one being affected by any of the multitude of travel dangers out there are pretty slim. For the amount of people who travel to a to surf destination like, say El Salvador for instance, how many people actually die at the hands of murderous El Salvadorian Death Squads? What’s the chance of drowning during a Tsunami during a boat trip to islands of Northern Sumatra? Slim to none, yet the risk is always out there.

Savannah Shaughnessy, is a 20 year old surfer from Scotts Valley who‘s been coming down to Puerto for the last four years. She a skilled big wave surfer who comes down for months at a time to get a piece of the juicy, top to bottom waves that explode over Puerto‘s shallow sandbars like clockwork. I asked Savannah if the threat of Swine Flu or Drug Cartels influenced her choice to make the trek south this year “It didn't affect my decision too much, because I love coming here and I knew that it would be pretty safe once I got here. But it made my parents really worried! They almost didn't let me come!”

Like Savannah, there are many among the surf community who will travel just about anywhere, no matter what dangers are, just to get that opportunity to score some epic surf. While the locals business owners may have lost some profits throughout the past few months, the loyal will always return, and less people means less crowds, something any surfer knows is worth a little risk.

SURF TIPZ

2009-12-29T10:47:00.000-08:00

5 TRAVEL TIPS

Travelling can be a major headache. Follow these tips to make your trip run smoothly.

As I sit here in Mexico City awaiting my transferring flight to Puerto Escondido, aka the Mexican Pipeline, I can’t help but think back on my hurried, chaotic, and frantic travel habits of years past. Missed flights, forgotten necessities, and a general spur of the moment mentality that has left me broke, late, sunburned, and stressed. Although my current excursion has had it’s share of hiccups, my skills as an internationally traveling surfer have improved drastically. Being stressed out on vacation is no fun, so I’ve drawn upon my own mistakes to provide aspiring surf hunters with five helpful hints to aid you on your search for the perfect wave.

1) Plan Ahead- This part is crucial. It’s commonly known that the earlier you book a flight somewhere, the cheaper it will be. Make sure you buy your ticket as soon as possible, your check book will thank you. While it may not save you much cash, doing the same for lodging and transportation will save you a headache upon arriving at your destination. Make a schedule for your trip, this will help keep you on track, as well as let you help you accomplish all the things you wanted to see and do.

2) Make a List- One thing about surf trips abroad, especially ones to third world or extremely isolated locales, you don’t want to show up and find that you forgot something you can’t live without. It’s the worst. If these necessities can’t be found or don’t exist where you are, you can find yourself in a world of hurt/ From being jacket-less in Alaska, to forgetting sunscreen on a trip to Fiji, the possibilities for disaster are endless. By creating a list before you pack, and checking it twice just like Santee Clause, you can avoid tragedy and make sure you have everything you need.

3) Pack Ahead of Time- Once you have drafted your list, you should make sure that you give yourself at least 2-3 days ahead of time to avoid missing something in a hurry. Who knows, you might remember the medication or favorite book you overlooked in your initial list. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve waited until the night before to pack, and more often than not, the result is disastrous.

4) Pack Lightly - While on the hunt for perfect surf in an unknown land, why would you want to lug around a bunch of stuff you don’t need.? Forget the Ipod dock and portable DVD player, these distractions will keep you from experiencing the local culture and will only slow you down. Thing about necessities, and from there try to scale back as much as possible. Bringing all your worldly possessions will improve your odds on having something lost, stolen, or destroyed.

5) Come Prepared - This final hint may seem obvious, yet is overlooked time and time again by rookie travelers. How bummed would you be if you arrived in Hawaii to cranking surf, but realized you only brought your 6’0” grovel board? Or imagine showing up in Canada during the dead of Winter with a 2 Mil short arm wetsuit. Read up on your destination, note the weather, types of surf, and local cultures, and plan accordingly.
Using these five tips I hope you can avoid learning the hard way like myself, and score in style on your next surf safari!

WATERMEN

2009-12-28T11:36:00.000-08:00

BAY CROSSING

In California prior to World War 2, surfers were commonly referred to as “watermen”. According to Carin Crawford, quoted in David Rensin’s biography of the mischievous surf icon, Miki Dora, entitled All for a Few Perfect Waves these “watermen” were people who maintained a “multidimensional relationship with the ocean…and had an intimate knowledge of tides, currents, and weather patterns because their livelihood depended on it”.

These early surfers didn’t surf to get famous or rich, rather they all shared a common bond, an undying love for the ocean. Surfers back then were fishermen, swimmers, and divers, whose time in and around the water gave them not only a fantastic physique and golden tan, but an intimate and uncanny understanding of the sea.

Fast forward to modern times. Surfing has become so popular that it feels like every one and their brother(and sister, son in law, uncle, cousin, etc) has taken up the sport. Long gone are the days of surfing 90 pound redwood planks in fifty degree water in nothing but a pair of cut off Levi’s with only yourself and a couple of buddies. Surfing has grown so mainstream that one might wonder if the dedicated watermen of yesteryear remain relevant in these modern times, let alone exist at all?

While you may not read about them much in Surfer magazine, there are still a large number of surfers who have dedicated their lives to everything that is the ocean. True watermen who free dive, fish, swim, and surf in order to reinforce that passion for sea, learning to love and respect it’s power and greatness One of the ways that these oceanic Olympians train is paddleboarding.
Paddleboarding is a great way for surfers and lifeguards to train and prepare themselves for hairy situations at sea. The powerful surf and currents found in and around the Monterey Bay can punish and humble the fittest of watermen. Santa Cruz is home to a host of big-wave hellmen, who utilize paddleboarding as a training exercise, preparation for the inevitable thrashings that come with surfing giant waves.

Jay Moriarity was one of Santa Cruz’s most dedicated watermen. He paddled, swam, and dove as methods to keep his body fit so he could surf his favorite wave, the bone crushing behemoth known as Mavericks in Half Moon Bay. In an ironic twist of fate, it would be a solo free dive gone wrong off the coast of India that took him from us, tearing a hole in the heart of the Santa Cruz surf community that is still healing to this day.

In honor of Jay’s memory, an annual paddle race has give local men and women a chance to show off their paddling skills, and perpetuate the legacy of the “watermen” way of life Jay embraced during his time here on Earth with vigorous passion. The Jay race has become extremely popular and prestigious and brings in athletes from across the land.
Now, a paddle race is being organized that will surely test even the most experienced of paddlers. The Bay Crossing, which scheduled for June 27th with a 6:30 AM start time is a 27.5 mile course that starts on the East Side of the Wharf in front of the Main Beach in Santa Cruz. Participants will then paddle straight out into the Bay make a left shoulder turn at the M1 Buoy (this buoy is nearly 12 miles from the nearest point of land), and paddle to the finish in the water in front of Monterey State Beach. The event is open to individual competitors and 2-4 person teams. Paddleboards and SUP (stand-up paddleboard). Each competitor and team is required to have their own escort boat.

Not only is the race long and physically demanding, the route passes over the Monterey Canyon, an area teeming with wildlife, with such unfriendly residents such as Great White Sharks and Killer Whales. People have crossed the Bay before, but this organized event will bring a sense of prestige and will hopefully lay the foundation for a lasting tradition.

Big wave charger and accomplished paddler Zach Wormhoudt is part of the crew determined to keep the “watermen” tradition alive by organizing this unique event. By the way he throws himself over the ledge in life-threatening surf at Mavericks, you can tell he takes his training quite seriously.

You think you have what it takes? Contact the event organizers at thebaycrossing@gmail.com. However, the Crossing is only for the experienced and fit. As Wormhoudt puts it himself, “You have to do it knowing you may not make it. Although the event will be a race, almost every competitor will be aiming just to finish.”

LOG BLOG

2009-12-28T11:16:00.000-08:00

MEMORIAL DAY COMP

Carl's cruisy carve

Any hardcore surfer would have to agree that Santa Cruz, California truly is Surf City, USA. What other town boasts such deep rooted historical connections to the “sport of kings“? After all, it was here that three Hawaiian princes surfed in 1885, in a number of sessions which would be known later as the mainland United State’s first encounter with the sport.

In the 1950’s Jack O’Neill revolutionized the sport by inventing the first functional wetsuits, an act which brought surfing to places people never dreamed of. With such world class surfers and waves, it’s no surprise that the town’s got so much history. This weekend, it looks as there’s some more history yet to be made. The Longboard Union Invitational Memorial Day contest, presented by the Santa Cruz Longboard Union or SCLU, kicked off yesterday at Steamer Lane.

The event pits rival longboard clubs from across California in a battle for the title, and most importantly, bragging rights. While the competition is fierce, there’s always a sense of camaraderie in air, as it gives the longboard community, which stretches up and down the west coast and also has ties on the east coast and Hawaii, a chance to catch up and hang out. According to SCLU representative Carl Olsen, “The club contests are a way for old friends to meet up, so in that way the ‘contests’ are really a giant club meeting of all the clubs”.

This time around, the contest enters it’s twenty-fifth year, making it Santa Cruz’s longest running surf contest. “It really represents the long, hard work of the older club members such as Pete Noble, Cindy Sandberg, Kim Stoner, Don Craddock and so many others working tirelessly behind the scenes to keep the event afloat, now and in the years past”, says Olsen. Olsen is one of the many Santa Cruz Longboard Union members who works hard all year preparing and organizing the yearly event, which is, as he puts it, “the glue that keeps the club together, along with a love for surfing”.

Not only is this year’s event a historic one, it also recognizes the importance of Santa Cruz’s history as a real “Surf City”, donating it’s proceeds to the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, located a stone’s throw from the surf at the Lane. The museum, which has faced closure in recent years, needs all the help it can get, and this is a way for the Union, which has ties to the original Santa Cruz Surfing Club members and to the museum itself, to do it’s part to help the local treasure stay afloat. Head on over to the Lane today and check out some history in action. As junior competitor Kai Medeiros said, “It’s cool to be a part of something that’s older than me!”.

FISH OUTTA WATER

2009-12-28T11:06:00.000-08:00

WE CAN REBUILD HIM!

CLARK ON A MEATY ONE

Few things seem to frighten Half Moon Bay's Jeff Clark. Decades ago, he paddled out by himself at the break which is now known as Maverick's, a spot which is considered one of the heaviest deep-water waves in the world.
Clark went on to pioneer surfing the treacherous, shark-infested waters of Maverick's, eventually honing his skills to such an extent that he learned to ride the wave switch stance. Remarkably, he managed to survive fifteen years surfing the spot all by himself, despite the bone-crunching surf and hungry great white sharks.
Approaching the 35-year reunion of his monumental discovery, Clark is facing a rare point in his life in which he is truly frightened. The reason for his trepidation? The prospect of months out of the water and the thought of missing out on the action out at the peak at Mav's.
A lifetime of surfing and sports has taken it's toll on Clark. He's had a number of operations, including back surgery, and just recently underwent a procedure to take care of chronic hip problems. The surgery was a hip resurfacing procedure, a relatively new technique that preserves the femur. The surgeon, Dr. Thomas Vail of UC San Francisco, dislocated Clarks leg to access the hip joint. Then, he smoothed out the ball and socket of the joint and put a titanium cap over the ball and in the socket, so it formed a perfectly smooth fit. The surgery went smoothly, and the surgeon discovered why Clark was in so much pain.
"In the process, he found I had no cartilage left, removed four bone spurs and one bone fragment the size of a marble. Gnarly. No wonder I was in so much pain. No one could believe I could walk, much less surf, with all that going on", said Clark of his tattered hip joint.
Fresh out of surgery, Clark is on the mend, taking it easy at his house overlooking the break at Maverick's in Half Moon Bay. To keep himself occupied and focused on recovery, Clark has created a blog to document his healing process. The site, rebuildjeffclark.blogspot.com, contains up-to-date journal entries, photos, as well as a link to an animated depiction of his surgery, which takes viewers through the entire procedure step by step.
For Clark, creating the site is a way to inspire others. He desires to, "show people what I am going through, and let them follow me to my goal to surf Mavericks again. ... I want to show that you can have a major surgery like this and still come back to be at the top of your game."
Along with providing a platform to share his story, Clark also hopes the blog helps him raise money to pay for the medical bills. With debts reaching $30,000, Clark is asking his fans and the surfing community to donate whatever they can. Everyone who makes a donation will receive a signed autograph from Clark himself.
Through physical therapy and rehabilitation, Clark hopes to be back out at Maverick's by the beginning of 2010. He's got a tough road ahead of him, yet the prospect of getting back in the ocean gives him hope.
"My first venture back into the water will likely be on a stand-up paddle, paddling around the harbor. It's a great way to tune up your balance and build core strength. Eventually I'll be working with trainer Derek Johnson of Nalu Fit, who works specifically on surf training in and out of the water," said Clark of his plans for getting his body back in surfing shape.
For the moment, the "Maverick Man" is a fish out of water.
"I'm willing to do what I have to do to be able to come back better than I was," Clark said.

THIS ONE'S FOR YOU KIDDO

2009-12-28T10:59:00.000-08:00

THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER

You’ve probably heard the old saying, “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder” hundreds of times throughout your entire life and most likely thought little of it. However, surfing is a great subject to look into such a saying, and brings the question of Relativity into the picture. Back in the day, Einstein got pretty heavy into the stuff and ended up publishing some of the most important findings of our time, notably the theory of Relativity. Einstein’s groundbreaking work brought about new understandings of the Universe, including astonishing finds regarding the relationship of time and space. You may be thinking, “Wait a second, I’m just a grom! I’m more worried about eating gummy worms and painting my surfboards, than time dilation and mass-energy equivalence!”. Patience, young grasshopper! You see relativity also refers to the way two different people may have different understanding of a similar event or occurrence, hence the “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder” reference. You see, surfer’s living in Florida’s pan handle region would lose their marbles upon seeing some of the average waves that roll daily through Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, California. Likewise, many surfer’s in Hawaii, who usually feel extremely comfortable in tropical waters, will shrivel at the thought of surfing in waters under 60 degrees. On a similar note, I’ve met professional snowboarder’s who think I’m nuts for looking for life threatening waves in shark infested waters, while they comfortably fling themselves down sheer, craggy, mountainsides at breakneck speeds. Everything’s relative, and the more you grow, the more you travel, and the more people and culture you expose yourself to, you will come to realize this. Perhaps some of the experiences and friendships you make during your travels will help you look at things through the eyes of another beholder.

BLOGZ

2009-12-26T12:37:00.000-08:00

Don't bog, blog!

this is the kind of random shit Dane puts on his blog, funky random and cool shit. marinelayerproductions.com

In this informational age of Twitter updates and blogging, people are increasingly utilizing the internet to allow others intimate insight into their personal lives. People like to stay connected, and more importantly they like to be informed. A growing number of these web surfers happen to be real surfers, and they are turning to the web for surf related information and content.

To address this demand, professional surfers, photographers, and surf journalists alike have begun to create their own personal websites. These sites offer news, photos, videos, as well as blogs, Involvement in these websites gives surf personalities a chance to interact with fans, increase their visibility, as well as keep everyone updated with their latest doings. Here are five surf blogs to quench your surf stoke when the waves are flat.

1. The Goods Life http://www.blog.thegoodss.com/
Twin brothers Damien and CJ Hobgood have been fixtures in the surf world for the past decade, and remain two of my favorite surfers in the world. Their innovative small wave trickery and heart stopping performances in Tahiti have solidified their place amongst the best in the world. The Goods Life offers fans up to date news, blog entries, as well as their own personal videos, which can be pretty hilarious at times.

2. Chris Burkard Photography http://www.chrisburkard.blogspot.com/
Central California’s Chris Burkard has quickly become one of the worlds most talented surf photographers. Chris recently finished the California Book Project, in which he and Eric Soderquist documented the sights and surf found within the Golden state. This blog site allows Chris a chance to show everyone where currently is, where, he’s been, and the sorts of adventures and experiences he’s had along the way.

3. Post Surf (DECEASED)http://www.postsurf.com/
Surf news and forecasting website Surfline fired writer Lewis Samuels for a piece he wrote criticizing Billabong CEO, Paul Naude. Upon being booted, Samuels took it upon himself to create a new outlet for his politically incorrect musings in the form of his new blog, Post Surf. On the site, Lewis stirs things up by calling out the surf industry and professionals alike. I think he's a prick, but while it lasted, postsurf was always a good place to go for entertainment. More on him later.

4. Dane Reynolds www.marinelayerproductions.com
Dane Reynolds is a humble human being. He never puts himself out there as "the guy", or "Check Me Out I'm Sponsored Joe Pro". This new blog is a way for Dane to express himself, to give the world an intimate look at the world as he see's it. Lot's of normal folk have blogs, so why can't Dane? He's a person just like all of us, and his photo's and musings are pretty entertaining. In the photos and videos that he posts, Mr. Reynolds not only shows us his versatility as a surfer, but his knack for nostalgia, art, and creativity. My favorite is the busted wing layback video. Pure talent

5. Peter Mel http://www.petermel.com/
Santa Cruz surf legend Peter Mel has tackled some of the largest surf to hit the West Coast, and lives to tell about it. These days, Pete is busy as an announcer in a number of international surfing events, while still finding time to fulfill his job as big wave hellman and professional surfer. On his official website, Pete posts blogs, videos, pictures, a biography, as well as an updated schedule to keep track of his whereabouts. One of my heroes.

Featured Artist

2009-04-27T11:41:00.000-07:00

KEVIN WALSH

Kevin aka Manson getting creepy in his Swift Street Studio

You may have noticed the past few years that many top-name surfing professionals such as Jason “Ratboy” Collins, Josh Mulcoy and Matt Rockhold have been riding surfboards with colorful, unique and eye-catching graphics. There’s Ratboy’s custom Stretch with the entire bottom side painted with a cartoonish panarama of surfers busting airs and pulling into tubes at the Santa Cruz harbor. On any given day, Mulcoy might be riding a board with a depiction of a rugged surf landscape in Alaska, complete with a solitary, rubber clad soul surfer pulling into an icy barrel. As Matt Rockhold soars a gigantic aerial over your head, you may have time to notice the eerily realistic picture of a gigantic Grizzly Bear pawing at a salmon in a rushing creek.

The man behind the paint pen is Santa Cruz painter and graphic designer Kevin Walsh. At the tender age of 25, Walsh has established himself as one of the most promising artists in the region. Along with painting graphics on the boards of some of the area’s most well-known pro surfers, he has plied his art onto skateboards, T-shirts and concert posters.

Walsh’s obsession with drawing began at an early age. By age 4, he was drawing waves, picking up on the influence of his father, a gifted painter in his own right who specializes in ocean and nautical scenes. He developed his skill with endless hours of practice and a number of high school art classes.Walsh began painting professionally when he was hired to create surfboard graphics by Bill Reidel from Stretch Surfboards. As soon as local surfers began to see Walsh’s grade-A graphics out in the lineups, the demand for his crazy creations skyrocketed. The hype around his graphics grew and interest in his work expanded into non-surfing-related realms. Eventually, he was hired to create the poster and T-shirt designs for annual Cold Water Classic surf contest at Steamer Lane, as well as concert posters for the likes of Jack Johnson and The Black Eyed Peas.

Walsh credits his father for encouraging him to make a life from creating art.“I’ve always looked up to my dad and his love for art,” Walsh said. “I think it’s definitely rubbed off on me, and he remains my main influence.”Re-occurring themes in Walsh’s art include surfing, rock/pop art, pin-up girls, wildlife, and the old West. He mixes them all together in colorful, surreal dreamscapes, the details of which can leave you staring endlessly, almost mesmerized by their quirky complexity. His style and subject matter resemble bring to mind the works of the legendary Jim Phillips, who earned international fame for his psychedelic concert posters of the ’60s and ’70s.

These days, Kevin is incredibly busy putting the final touches on a concept piece he’s working on for a concert pairing Slightly Stoopid and Snoop Dogg. In addition, he constantly has jobs in the works for companies like Stretch, Screwball Surfboards, O’Neill, Rip Curl, Ladera Skateboards, Another Planet Entertainment, Silverback Management, Mulcoy Incorporated, Gnu Snowboards and Ocean Minded

Ratty's TNT Fishing Stick www.seabeastart.com

Having a custom Walsh paint job on your board can not only increase your visibility in the water, but also elevate your stoke level as well. Jason "Ratboy" Collins, who first met Walsh through Stretch a few years ago, remembers one paint job in particular that will last in his memory forever.

" The whole bottom of the board was a fishing scene. Floating in a little boat were two cartoon depictions of me and (Josh) Loya, throwing sticks of dynamite in the water. Underwater the dynamite is blasting these shocked tuna fish. Pretty classic. My mom actually still has it"

Along with an already solid reputation, Walsh is focused, determined, and incredibly passionate, so it’s no surprise that along with his undisputable talent, there’s a desire that burns deep within in him to show the world what he’s capable of.

“I’m proud of making my dream a reality, which is to surf and paint while make a decent living,” Walsh said. “I’m also fortunate to have all the friends that I have met along the way. I’m stoked with all the success I’ve made so far, but my main concern is living in the moment, loving what I do and getting people stoked at looking at art.”

SC LEGENDS

2009-04-23T13:49:00.000-07:00

DAVE "NELLY" NELSON

In case you didn't know, Nelly is a shreddy skater as well

SURFSHOT INDUSTRY PROFILE

By Neal Kearney

http://surfshot.com

Across the globe, the city of Santa Cruz is famous as a breeding ground for hardcore skateboarders and progressive surfers. For decades, surfers in the region have been incorporating skate influences in their surfing, and vice versa. In the 70’s, the pool skaters drew heavily on surfing while perfecting their slashing grinds, and in the 90’s Santa Cruz surfers were using a skate inspired approach to push their above the lip antics. As Santa Cruz surfers looked to skateboarders, so did the photographers who shot them. By using pole cameras and fish eye lenses, photographers like Tony Roberts began producing images of the SC air boys that captured their technical, in-your-face, and fins-free style of surfing.Enter Dave Nelson, aka Nelly, Santa Cruz’s current skate inspired photo master. During the past decade, Nelly has been working endlessly to produce the most stunning of images, fueled by a passionate desire to capture surfing’s most extreme moments.Nelly has deep skating roots, and began his photography career shooting skateboarders. The exposure has definitely influenced his photography, as evidenced by his shots of Ratboy’s soaring lien grab airs, or up close views of Adam Replogle charging giant pits. As a water photographer, Nelly’s not afraid to put himself in harms way to get unique visions, and this tactic allows him to be in the right spot at the right time.Being a high profile photographer, Nelly knows the surf industry in and out. From dealing with companies to working with the magazines, he’s highly in tune to the inner workings of the sport, and has accumulated a bounty of knowledge, insight he uses to help the surfers who he works with succeed. Surfshot recently caught up with Nelly for a brief chat to gain some further insight into his world.

1) When did you start taking photo's and how did that come about?.

I started taking photos about 15 years ago. I used to work with a guy named Tony Roberts, and he was like the Santa Cruz Photo guru back in the day. He used to take alot of shots of me skating, and i kind of learned about photography along the way. I owe him everything. When he moved to Costa Rica he really hooked me up. He came by my house with all kinds of old gear and flowed me some of his contacts too. TR you rule!!!!!

2) How has the industry changed from when you started out as a professional photog?

The industry has changed so much, and is constantly changing. All you have to do is pick up an old mag from the 70s or 80s to see how much everything evolves. I mean they had boogie board ads in the front of the mag back then!!! The industry is impossible to break into for new photogs these days unless your name is Pat Stacy or Daniel Russo. Those guys are almost purely water guys, and theyre willing to risk their lives to get the shot!!!

3) Professional photographers these days not only work for surf magazines, but for large surf companies as well. Can you lend any insight into this phenomenon and how its affected your situation?

Nobodys gonna buy a 600mm lens and stand on the beach, and bea able to turn any heads or get a job with one of the mags. The companies all have 1 or 2 photographers on retainer, so you cant sell any ads either.I used to sell ads like crazy, not any more

4) How has the shift to digital changed the game for you personally? Do you ever use film anymore?

I was the last holdout when it came to switching to digital. Im not a fan of computers so i was dreading having to learn all this new software an d everthing else that comes with digital photography. My boss said it was cool and they were happy with what i captured with film. After a while though the breakthroughs with digital were so amazing there was no denying it anymore. it was sharper, and the fact that you can sit in the water for hours shooting without having to swim in and change rolls was very inticing too!!!! I almost never use film anymore, but i will when the situation calls for it.

5) A lot of talented surfer's are losing their sponsors with the faltering economy. What, in your opinion, are good ways for these surfer's to prove themselves in such tough times? .

Times are extremely tough right now. You gotta really want it bad if you want to bea a well paid pro surfer. My advice has always been the same. You need to think ahead, get up at the crack of dawn and get shit done. live eat and breathe surfing. It takes alot of effort if your names not Jamie Obrien or Bruce Irons. The most successful guys i see are the ones who try the hardest and dont let anything get in their way....

WHO DAT?

2009-04-22T23:32:00.000-07:00

CHAD UNDERHILL-MERAS

Chad-Um's pivots through a lenghly lipslide

Sup wich y’all it’s me Chad Underhill

Comin for blood ’cause I can always smell a kill

I won’t quit the wave until I’ve had my fill

Nineteen years old and I’m only getting better still

That tight flow came straight from the buttered mouth piece of up and coming rapper Chad Underhill-Meras. Actually, to tell the truth, Chad’s a surfer, not a rapper. To me, this is unfortunate because it works on so many levels. His moniker might be, for instance, Lil C The Underheezy comin live and direct from the West Side. Player stay up. As fate would have it, however, Chad was born in sleepy Santa Cruz, not cutthroat Compton. This doesn’t mean that he doesn’t floss though. I’ve seen him looking G’d up from the feet up, complete with icy bling and a backwards baseball cap. His steez in the water is pretty funky as well. Growing up watching limber legends like Barney and Flea launching at the Lane, Chad has developed a taste for fins out surfing, constantly on the lookout for a ledges to lip slide. With the support of the West Side and inspiration from good buddies like Nic Lamb and Nat Young, Chad is looking to make his mark in the rap, er I mean surf world in no time.

http://santacruzlive.com/blogs/surf/

Question of The Day!

2009-04-22T19:57:00.000-07:00

STATE OF THE BIZ

Rodie's on rail surfing and commited power act will surely help his sponsor's sell gear for years to come

Today I caught up with legendary Santa Cruz ripper and ambassador of stoke, Adam Replogle, and asked him today’s question of the day…….. “How do you see the future of the surfing economy?”

AR-”When I think of the future of the surf industry I just go look at the line up on a flat day and it give me hope for the future. Lately, the water has been packed. Not just local contractors out of work but a new group of beginners in their 40’s and 50’s. Tons of them, just go by Cowells on any low tide and you will see what I am talking about. Hopefully, one day when the surfing economy ramps back up, surfing will have some new members to help support the industry, but for now we just need to be stoked we live in Santa Cruz”

HEALTH AND FITNESS

2009-04-22T19:45:00.001-07:00

SURF FOREVER

Surfing is an incredibly demanding sport. Mentally, it demands patience and focus. Spiritually, it demands dedication and passion. The most important demand placed on all of those who participate, in my opinion, is the extreme physical one’s placed on surfers as they go head-to-head with the unharnessed energy of mother nature with little else than a surfboard and a leash. Other than countless hours in the water and the experience that comes with it, one might think that there is little one can do to prepare themselves for a life of surfing forever. In this weekly Froth Blog, entitled “Surfing Forever”, I will provide readers with a holistic approach to surfing at the top of their game. By looking at particular methods of preparation and maintenance, such as warming up, stretching, strengthening, utilizing a healthy diet, and keeping a an elevated state of mental clarity, this blog is dedicated to sharing ways to improve one’s mental and physical prowess as a surfer. Hopefully, by following this blog, and incorporating it’s findings into your routine, you will be able to maximize your experience in the water, and enjoy a life “Surfing Forever”. Next week, we will be looking at ways in which to loosen up and prepare the body and mind for a good surf in “Surfing Forever” Part 1- Warming Up.

BREAKING NEWS- EXPANSION OF THE FROTH!

2009-04-21T21:52:00.000-07:00

SANTA CRUZ COUNTY SENTINEL FINDS THE FROTH!

Every other week, journalist Neal Kearney will produce a new surf story in his column, The Froth Pit

The Froth has expanded! Froth Father and Santa Cruz local, Neal Kearney, aka NEALDUDE, has just been hired as surf columnist for the Santa Cruz County Sentinel, the area's leading source of local news. Check back every other week for news, interviews, and insight from ND, the Froth Father himself...

Staring into the eye of this ferocious monster, I came to fully understand the reason for its mythic reputation. It towered above me, threatening me with unimaginable force. Its furious advance did little to intimidate me however, for this encounter was my idea.
For years I had studied this Hawaiian behemoth called the Banzai Pipeline, analyzing its characteristics, idolizing those who had successfully tamed this beast. Yet, when I found myself face to face with the monstrosity during a 2004 session, I felt almost at ease, as though watching myself act from the safety of a movie theater seat. The time came for me make my move, and as the beast lifted me up with its giant claws, I took my position and swung my blade.
In any other circumstance my timing would have been perfect, but this time the Pipeline had different ideas.
Grabbing the rail of my board, I was pulled down the face of the giant wave, literally feeling the g-force as I made my descent. With my timing slightly off, I quickly found myself in the one of the worst possible scenarios -- going over the falls at Pipeline. As the wave pitched out, it subsequently launched me into the air, a good 15 feet from the bottom of the wave.
I knew what fate comes to those who fail to harness the unpredictable energy of the Pipeline. Images of the numerous deaths and broken necks of those who have tried, unsuccessfully, flashed through my mind during the three seconds of free fall prior to impact. I looked for a soft place to land, but to my dismay I instead saw submerged coral heads, razor sharp and incredibly uninviting.
Before I knew it, I was doing a pencil dive into a half foot of water. A deadly cascade of churning water followed me, folding me like an accordion. Immeasurable pain shot through my legs, and I knew I had hurt myself badly. As the behemoth pinned me to the craggy reef, powerful blasts of whitewash knocked me about like a child's plaything.
Just when I thought the end was near, I shot to the surface, choking on foam while frantically gasping for air. I looked around, only to find my board in pieces and blood gushing from my shins and feet. Whimpering, I limped up the beach, carrying my broken surfboard in my arms like some shattered remnant of battle.
As I walked up the trail, I looked over my shoulder for one last glance at Pipeline. As though taunting me, a perfect wave barreled flawlessly over the reef, proclaiming its majesty by belching a giant spray out both ends of its gaping innards.
My name is Neal Kearney. I have been surfing my entire life, and my time in the ocean has shaped the man I am today. The lessons the ocean can teach us are infinite. From patience to courage, surfing will test your character, no matter how good you are. These trials and tribulations, such as my experience taking on Pipeline, can teach a person a great deal about himself. In my column, The Froth Pit, I will draw on my lifelong obsession with the ocean, as well as my experiences as a traveling professional surfer, to bring you, the reader, a look into my world of surf.
Neal Kearney and The Froth Pit will appear every other week in the Sentinel. Contact him at sports@santacruzsentinel.com.

Industry Notes

2009-04-01T23:47:00.001-07:00

GLOBAL SURF PRESS RELEASE

For the second year in a row, Stand Up Paddle Surfboarding or SUP, has been invited to supplement the yearly Kiteboarder Magazine event held in Pismo this last weekend. The event allows potential buyers the rare chance to tryKite Surfing and SUP equipment before buying. This lends to 100% buyer confidence and that old saying- satisfaction guaranteed.
Stand Up Paddling has been tagged as the fastest growing water sport recently do it it's low impact/high return core workout qualities. Kiteboarders chase the wind but on those days when Mother nature just doesn't feel like blowing, SUP is a perfect workout replacement. Besides every major Kiteboard equipment company in the world, Extreme Big Air and Kiteboarder Magazine invited SUP manufactures including Global SurfIndustries (GSI), and others to let Kite Surfers try their different boards."It is a perfect complimentary activity to Kite Surfing," says Pacific NorthWest Territory Manager for GSI, Jason Miller. "Like Kiting, you can SUP almost anywhere, lakes, rivers, in the surf. It's actually better to try the first few times without waves in flat water, not only will you have alot more fun but you'll have a faster learning curve if you plan to take into the ocean. If you plan on SUP surfing try to find a small SUP friendly spot that does not have a lot of regular surfers around. Learning to handle these bigger boards in crowded conditions can be very dangerous."
Jason also brought a quiver of regular surfboards from world famous shapers Steve Walden, from Santa Barbara, Greg Webber and Bob McTavish, both from Australia. The one board that you could NOT go without missing was theModern Longboard by Tomas Meyerhoffer from Pacifica. This hour glass, pintail, tri fin looks like something from a science fiction movie. "Everyone who tried it this weekend was blown away, even people who didn't ride it couldn't help but ask what it was!" Jason said, "The performance in the water backs up any attention it gets on land for sure."
The Meyerhoffer is possibly the most radical design innovation in longboarding for a generation. With this ultra-modern take on the traditional longboard world renowned industrial designer Thomas Meyerhofferand Global Surf Industries bring his design excellence into the realm of the everyday surfer, increasing the ultimate experience and propelling surfing into the mainstream consciousness more than ever.
Always in search of ways to increase the experience Thomas Meyerhoffer designs products in the areas of sports, technology and furniture. Hisprevious experimental surfboards have been included in New York's Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum and the Pasadena Museum of California Art,while Outside Magazine has tipped the Meyerhoffer Longboard in 2009 as a surfing product that will blow your mind.'
Each section of the board is optimized for maximum performance, the design evolving into an incredibly complex shape with three different that transition smoothly into each other with its own purified purpose in an organic and seamlessly effective shape. Just like nature itself. The evolution of the Meyerhoffer has been a process of taking away more than adding to traditional forms, enabling Thomas a greater opportunity to shape the board.

The trippy Meyerhoffer

"As a designer I believe in the proportions of nature. If you change a shape in one direction the flow on effect undoubtedly changes it in the other,"said Thomas.
From the wide tail through a minimal waist and into a more classic nose, the design brings short board elements into a longer board to maximize speed and turning, provides paddling ease and high performance nose riding. Every element of the board provides the ability for smooth transition from front to back.
"I want to further explore that indefinable feeling of surfing and I see this same sentiment within Global Surf Industries," he added.
And in their quest to push the boundaries of surfboard design Global Surf Industries has teamed with Thomas for the next chapter in this evolution.The Meyerhoffer once more takes us back to the longboard and beyond the current shape while still encompassing core shortboard philosophies in itsdesign.
"It has always been a goal of mine to help create definite design differentiation in the retail surf industry," said GSI Managing Director Mark Kelly."As a whole, surfboards are very similar and I believe today it is shapes over construction that we need to develop further."
Global Surf Industries is the largest surfboard distributor in the world,distributing to over 50 countries. Mark believes if you were to take 20random boards from the rack at your local surf shop and remove all brand definable markings, most of us would be at a loss trying to differentiate between each. Unless however, included in that collection are the latest Meyerhoffer longboards.
"We are a company for the recreational surfer and I cannot wait to give every surfer out there the opportunity to ride this truly innovative piece of modern design," concluded Mark.
The Meyerhoffer will be marketed under Global Surf Industries Modern Longboards brand. It was officially launched internationally and surfed at this year's Global Surf Industries Noosa Festival of Surfing in Australia earlier this month. The Festival is the largest of its kind in the world. Itran from March 15 - 22, has 1,800 entrants in over a dozen competitions. Italso encompasses the GSI One Design Invitational, where six heats of six invitees surfed 9'2" Meyerhoffer boards for the first time for a place inthe final.
For more information, videos and reviews go to www.surfindustries.com/modernor call 1 877 474 6503
BOARD SPECIFICATIONSLENGTH WIDTH THICK rider weight range7'6" 36" / 21 1/2" 2 3/4" <>9'2" 41" / 22" 3" <>
All boards are constructed in GSI's SLX - Super Lightweight Epoxy -technology to ensure maximum responsiveness. We have glassed all boards with white tinted epoxy resin. They have 2 X 6oz layers of fiberglass ondeck and 1 X 4oz bottom with a 6oz patch on the fin area. We give the boards the gloss polish finish and they come 6" or 8" Centre fin and FCS side fins depending on their length.

Industry Notes

2009-03-25T11:07:00.000-07:00

Industry Profile- Chad Wells

CWells roasting a donkey!

There’s a lot that goes into the job of a sponsored surfer. There’s no set routine, yet most pro surfers pursue careers which demand similar elements. You’ve got to travel, shoot photo’s, attend autograph signing’s and promotional events, compete in contests, and turn heads free surfing, all the while acting as a positive representative of the companies that support you. Many people may hear this and ask what all the fuss is about? To them, it all sounds exciting and fun, and wonder why any pro surfer would stress out or complain about their job.
On the surface, it would seem as though they’re asking a legitimate question. How could someone gripe about traveling the globe, surfing perfect waves, partying at exclusive events, and getting paid to do so? What the average bystander doesn’t understand, however, is the amount of physical and emotional demands placed on this tribe of professional globe-trotters. There’s a great deal of planning, training, networking, flying, driving, waiting, hoping and praying that come together which can at times create a hectic and stressful lifestyle.
Luckily, most surfer’s have team manager’s who help ease the stress involved in such activities, and its their job to make sure their team has everything they need to succeed. Surfs hot recently caught up with Quiksilver’s Chad Wells, for some insight regarding the duties required of a team manager, as well as a bit of his own personal history to help illustrate his journey through the ranks of the surf industry.

1. How did you come to work for Quiksilver?

It’s a little bit of a long story but in a nutshell, Strider got my number from a friend named Rob Colby who happened to work at Quiksilver, and rang me out of the blue one afternoon. At the time I was glassing and hot coating at Chas Surfboards, judging all the domestic WQS and Air Show events and coaching the high school surf team at Marina High in HB. So anyways, he rang me up and asked if I’d interview with him and I knew Strider a little bit from comps. The last time I’d seen him was a year or two prior walking up the path at Rocky Pt., so I guess he knew who I was at least. Taylor Whisenand, Greg Macias, Todd Kline and Strider hired me on Dec. 1st, 2003 and I’ve been here ever since. I’ll never forget that day!

2. Being a pro surfer at one time yourself, do you feel this gives you any edge or advantage to your job?

Ha! My pro surf career was nothing more than checking the “pro” box when I filled out my entry back then. I think from my past experiences being a sponsored surfer at one time, coaching the kids at the high school, and the opportunity to be involved in judging helps me tremendously every day. I can relate to the grom’s and can spot technique or equipment flaws and giving them a good formula before their heats. The part that I had no advantage in was the everyday office, corpo stuff and how to work with the magazines. Fortunately for me I have had really good mentoring from Todd Kline and Strider in both of those areas.

3. What is your job title and what does it entail?

I’m officially the surf team manager. Its funny because really the way I look at it is, I work for the athletes most of the time, they work for me some of the time and we all work for the company full time. My job mainly consists of a lot of follow up calls, emails and txt messages are an everyday occurrence. Organizing plane tickets, accommodations, transportation, paying entries, calling the mag’s, parent’s, photog’s, uploading blogs on our website, ordering clothing, wetsuits, managing budgets, submitting incentives, contracts, attending surf events, industry functions, identifying new prospects and every now and then go on a surf trip. That’s pretty much it but I’m sure I forgot something! It’s the best job in the world but most people don’t really understand how much actually goes into it. I take it pretty seriously and if you’ve ever called me and I didn’t pick up, I guarantee you’ll get a call back within a few hours.

4. It seems that everyone has been hard hit by the latest economic collapse. How has this affected Quiksilver? Your job in particular? Any predictions on how it will all play out?

I think the reason its affected Quiksilver the most is just the fact that we are a public company and we’re on Wall Street where anyone can go on the net and get information on us has been the # 1 culprit of some crazy rumors. But a company similar in size with the current state of the economy has to make some pretty tough calls, that’s just the way it is. Trimming back on things that can be sacrificed is probably the biggest result. With my job particularly having to clarify rumors has been the biggest affect bar none! But the other thing is taking a hard look at the way I manage the budget and trying to make good decisions for the team and beneficial for the brand. As far as the situation we’re in now with the economy being the worst its been since the 30’s or something only time will tell. It will eventually turn around but when that will happen is really anyone’s guess.

5. What's your favorite part of your job? Does it allow you to get out and surf still?

By far the best is being able to get in the water with some of the best surfers in the world or any of the team guys in their areas. Whether its little grom Matty P. at the HB Pier or Pete Mel at Pleasure’s it’s a blessing to be able to have a surf with those guys at their spots. Traveling is also a favorite. Its how I met my wife on the beach in France 4 years ago and I’ve visited at least 5 countries a couple of times over now. As for getting in the water, I’m recovering from back surgery last Jan now, but I was getting after it every day and there’s no complaints there.

6. The surf industry and media is always going through trends and phases. From the Momentum generation riding potato chip thin boards and acting terribly in surf movie skit's in the 90's, to neon board short wearing teenager's with six figure contract's flipping out in the 00's, the trends seem to carry the movement of the sport. What's next? And more importantly, how does the tattered economy dictate such shifts? Personally, I'd like to see a focus on the bad boy. Ad's of Geoff Brack breaking his own nose (board and face) with his fists. Sequences of Aaron Cormican taking bong rips. It would be awesome. What would you like to see? The next trend in surfing?

I couldn’t even tell ya! I don’t mind fluro actually but I’m hoping the weird tight pants thing goes away. I think Dane Reynolds has really given the kids a great role model to look up to. He can do some of the most technical airs and with serious loft, throws down power turns and geared his act to qualify for the WCT and re-qualifying showed he wasn’t a fluke and that he deserved to be there. The groms of today will be really gnarly when they are 18-20yrs old. The troubled economy will likely make it a lot harder for the kids who are thinking they are going to be pro surfers who are great surfers, but if it continues to be bad they’re going to have to be amazing in order to make a living at it. I would like to see a little more grit as well. Not necessarily the bad boy, but a little more edge and not in a gay pair of tight pants…haha! I‘d like to see more unity out of the Americans. The Gudauskas brothers are solid and their crew rally behind each other but just more support for each other just lifts everyone’s spirits and even if they aren’t your best buddy, they’re still an American.

FREEWRITE

2009-03-25T10:40:00.000-07:00

I'M A GROM AND I'M ANGRY!

Koa Smith is one pissed off grom! photo- Ripcurl

I’m a grom and I’m angry. I’m sick and tired of the older boys dropping in on me and taking all my waves. I’m fed up with the titty twisters, dead legs, monkey bumps, and Mexican Hat Dances. I don’t like picking licorice out of my hair after being dumped headfirst into the trash can. Why do the older guys pat me down for lunch money every time I go to the beach to check the surf? I can feel my blood boil when they talk trash on my older sister and my mom. Maybe I should take some Ju Jitsu classes and learn how to wrap these bullies into a pretzel. Too bad I’m just a little fella, and all I have are these wiry arms and chicken legs. I’m growing though, so they had better just watch out. Man, sometimes it’s tough being a grom. I’m so angry. Good thing I can go out surfing and get rid of some of this pent up aggression. All I have to do is paddle out and unleash my fury on some innocent, unsuspecting lip. It’s such a relief when I feel my fins blow out the back of the wave, my body tapping my minds inner anger to execute extreme acrobatics. As I pump down the line of this well groomed launch ramp, all the noogies, wet willies, and your momma jokes act as fuel for my lethal lift- off. When I stick my angst aided aerial, my angry quickly subsides. The feeling of stoke after pulling a big move is enough to cure any case of bad mojo. A couple tubes later I’m ready to come in a happy camper, completely calmed from a successful session of liquid therapy. Like the icing on top, it turns out all the older guys were watching my session from the beach. What better way to get my revenge than to put them to shame on my own terms. The cherry on tops comes when I walk by the crew of ruffians and hear one of the boys address me. “Sick wave little guy. Not bad for a grom”. I smile and walk by, and for once I don’t feel so angry.

WHO DAT?

2009-03-25T10:32:00.000-07:00

Boothy loves his donuts! ph-Cornut Wilson

Boothy! Kyle Buthman, aka Boothy, is one odd fellow. Around strangers, Boothy is usually quite reserved and shy. Once he’s in a comfortable environment with his buddies surrounding him, he looses his marbles. I’ve heard some of the weirdest things in my life come out of the kids mouth, and I love it. For the boys, Boothy’s bizzarre quirks and off the wall remarks provide non stop comedy. In the water, Boothy continues the insanity. His committed, on rail approach to surfing perfectly suites the high energy surf found in and around Santa Cruz County. Oh yah, Boothy loves the tube. When the surf is up you’ll likely catch Kyle charging one of SC’s slurping slabs or spine snapping shorepounds, searching out the tube with reckless abandon. He has taken his big wave act to the perilous reefs of Oahu’s North Shore, as well as the thumping beach breaks of Mainland Mexico. Next item on Boothy’s agenda are the ominous waters of Mavericks in Half Moon Bay. Its only natural, as he has always looked up to local legend Peter Mel, one of the few highly skilled waterman to challenge Mavericks at it’s biggest. Last week Boothy paddled out on a small day, and managed to catch a couple. Now that he’s broken the ice, hopefully he’ll get the chance to catch some bombs this Winter. Yah Boothy!!!

Industry Notes

2009-01-31T23:13:00.001-08:00

CHEZ STIX SURFBOARDS 2009

Has the recent economic crash deflated your surf stoke? Looking for a good way to spruce up your dismal existence? The answer is simple my friend, a new hand crafted stick courtesy of Chez Stix! That's right, Charlie Chesleigh, the legendary bald headed ripper known as Chezmoe, has re launched the Chez Stix campaign, and is up and running with a new shop! Some of SC's finest have pushed the limits of modern surfing with Chesleigh's forward thinking designs, and now he's back at it! contact him @Email:cchez@sbcglobal.net Mobile:831-325-5952 to order up a freshie!

CHEZMOE

2009-01-31T22:13:00.000-08:00

Searching For You

These azure depths churn with restlessness
Passionately birthing
Soothing waves which will find their way
Healing, feeling, reeling with purpose
Traveling farther than one might suspect
Yet always on course
Searching for You

WHO DAT?

2009-01-27T12:29:00.000-08:00

GABE GODFREY

Finding the Worm Hole ph Chachi

Pleasure Point has had it's share of legendary surfing families. From the Colletta's to the O'Neill's, the East Side surf families have proven that shredding runs in the blood. Meet Gabe Godfrey, a young Pleasure Point surfer who shares such radical roots. Gabe's pops, Dennis, basically rules the Point's craggy reefs, and his brother Bo is one of Central California's nuttiest pool skater's, as well as a skilled surfer in his own right. Young Gaberaham, as his friends lovingly call him, has inherited this knack for gnarliness, applying it to the surf and cement with reckless abandon. He's a goofy-footer who isn't afraid to use his large frame to muscle through hefty slabs, all the while remaining light as a feather while throwing his precise snaps. A natural talent in large surf, Gabe has acquired a taste for the bone-crushing waves of Mavericks. After surfing you might find Gabe on the creep for nachos, slapping the skate park with Paul Wall and MJ, or playing ball with his little pooches. Gabe is one of the nicest, genuine cat's you'll ever meet, always going out of his way to keep everyone happy, and the by way he's ripping lately you know his old man has got to be proud.

Age-20

Sponsors- Mada, Body Glove, Ocean Minded

Homebreak- Pleasure PointFavorite Surf Spot- Secret slab by my house

Looks up To- Pete Mel, parents, Jay Moriarty RIP

Tunes- GG Allin, Dubee AKA Sugawolf Pimp, ND freestyles, Pist Productions

Dream Session- Lance's Right, double overhead, double up tubes, with no one out.

26th ave- Backyard. Fun Beach break for surfing and finding girls.

Quote- "I Love New York!"

Thanks- Frankie D'Andrea and Mom's

SNAP, CRACKLE, POP! ph jake Ciffone

Question of The Day!

2009-01-26T18:09:00.000-08:00

TO GRAB OR NOT TO GRAB? THAT IS THE QUESTION!!

Anthony Joe demonstating a standard indy grab ph Wilson

Today's Question deals with the long debated spat between aerialsts whether or not to grab rail in the midst of a lofty punt. While it's impressive to watch Mick Fanning clear eight foot sections with a clean, centered double grab, but how bad ass is it to see Nathan Fletcher fling himself through the air like a possesed dradle, sticking to the board with nothing but his feet.

No Grab Nate ph Hank (vanssurf.com)

Who better to provide a little insight into the realm of ramps than Pleasure Point's own resident aerialist, Anthony Joeseph Mikus JR, known to the world at large simlpy as TJ. TJ can sniff out punt sections more effectively than an ant on the creep for sugar cubes. Here's his take on the grab tip.....

TJ:

WHATEVER I'M FEELING AT THE MOMENT, OR WHATEVER'S BEST FOR THE SECTION...I GUESS I LIKE TO JUST MIX IT UP FOR THE MOST PART! SOMETIMES I GO OUT AND REALLY WANNA DO A CERTAIN GRAB AND KINDA HAVE IT IN MIND BEFORE I EVEN CATCH A WAVE! LATLEY I'VE BEEN TRYING MUTE GRABS, THERE ACTUALLY NOT THAT HARD, IT'S JUST THAT THE GRAB CALLS FOR SOME PRETTY AKWARD POSITIONING. IF YOU THROW IN SOME KIND OF ROTATION THATS ALSO A GOOD WAY TO STEP UP YOUR AIR GAME. LIKE WITH THE MUTES, IF YOU THROW IN A ROTATION IT'S GONNA MAKE THE AIR LOOK WAY SICKER. AS WELL AS BEING DIFFICULT SOME OF THE TECHNICAL GRABS LOOK SO BAFFLING AND CRAZY THAT YOUR SURE TO GET SOME PROP'S AND HOOTS FROM THE BOYS ON THE BEACH"

TJ experimenting with a Kerrupt Grab ph. Jake Ciffone (aka Clifford)

Three To The Beach

2009-01-21T17:37:00.000-08:00

There were no shortage of Donkey's getting in the way and causing havoc. photo-Shmuel Thlaer/Sentinel

Harbor's Medeiros, several other local shine at ISF competition
By Neal Kearney, Sentinel Correspondent
As seen in The Santa Cruz County Sentinel http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/

As an untimely January heat wave continued to cook the Central Coast on Sunday, a horde of youngsters were busy cooling down in the waters off of Capitola's 2nd Jetty, during the fourth stop on the Interscholastic Surfing Federations regional qualifying series.
Enjoying contestable 3- to 4-foot surf, local surfers battled it out in efforts to gain points for their high school team.

As valuable season points were on the line, the contest was a chance for competitors to improve their respective team's overall standing. The much-hyped Mavericks swell that prompted event organizer Kim Clary to move the two-day event from Manresa State Beach to the mellower waters of Capitola, didn't quite materialize as expected. However, a solid Northwest swell blessed Capitola with well-formed and highly contestable waves that didn't seem to have a drop out of place.

Harbor's Kai Medeiros was one of the many surfers who demonstrated a confident control of his craft.

Medeiros used his smooth, stylish approach to rack a number of excellent rides during his boy's longboard final. This win helped clinch the season title for Medeiros.

"It was definitely not as big as day before, but it was still pretty rippable on a longboard, and my buoyant log made it easy to get long rides and it proved to be quite fun out there," Medeiros said.

Medeiros said season victory means a great deal to him.

"This is my second year in a row clinching first,"
he said. "I guess it just shows I'm the best longboarder my age in Santa Cruz and that's a great feeling, as I've looked up to guys who have done it years past. I'm really stoked."

Other standouts of the day included Harbor's Cheyne Pearson, who took top honors in the highly competitive boys shortboard division, utilizing 2nd Jetty's reeling right-handers. In the girls shortboard division, Soquel's Kelly Edmonds was victorious, while Harbor's Kaitlyn Cole clinched the girls longboard division. Soquel's Quinn Sandberg used his local knowledge to secure a first-place finish in the coed bodyboard division.

Harbor [76 this weekend] accumulated the most team points to attain the overall points lead over Soquel [63] in a heated battle. Rounding out the results were Aptos [78], Half Moon Bay [59], Scotts Valley [33] and Menlo-Atherton [14].

Little Shit's

2008-12-14T16:27:00.000-08:00

NIC H'DEZ

PPPPIIIIKAAACHUUUU!!! ph Nick Borelli

Little Nic H’dez is a local grom who’s been turning heads for quite some time now. Under the tutelage of SC Legend Adam Replogle, Nic has developed a smooth and technical style which is impressive for a youngster of his age. His chubby little chipmunk cheeks and ear to ear grin just make you wanna hug the little feller, while his Curren like cutbacks prompt considering retirement. He’s like a little Pikachu doll worming through the lineup, giggling and squeaking all the while. It will be interesting to see what happens when he fills out, and I’m going to safely bet that its going to be big things!

Insight

2008-12-14T16:13:00.000-08:00

Gulp!

INSIGHT-WINTER TIME

by Neal Kearney, As seen in Surfshot magazine. www.surfshot.com

MIKE PARSONS

NK-What does Winter mean to you?
MP-Cold water, less crowds, big waves.
NK-How do you prepare yourself for Winter?
MP-The approach to winter I start to feel excited the thought of big surf and off- shore wind cold water definitely what I live for. I also start to get nerves I know it will be real big soon and I start to think if I am ready. its the same feeling every October. As for preparation I try to really get in the water a lot just surf tell I can’t surf anymore. Try to be in great shape and mentally strong which for me comes from surfing.
NK-Heaviest Winter surf trip?
MP-Last year Cortez bank January. Myself, Brad Gerlach, Twiggy and Greg Long. Biggest waves of my life, just the four of us out. Definitely the best day of surfing in my Life. Just hoping for another day like that again.

TARIK KHASHOGGI

NK-How do you prepare for Winter?mentally?physically?
TK-Generally the surf is pretty small around Santa Barbara during the summer and getting good waves or even staying in the water can be challenging. I've found that for me the best way to stay on top of my game is to travel constantly during the summer especially south of the border to some of the big ledge beach breaks. This not only keeps me sane during flat summer months but also so that when winter rolls around it doesn't take so long to brush of those Cobb webs.
NK-Favorite Winter surf destination? why?
TK-Well I have to say that I have traveled to quite a few destinations throughout our winter months but the fact is some of the best waves I have gotten have been right here on the central coast. Although I do love spending time in Hawaii and there are few (if any) places that compare too the barrels on the North Shore, we have some insane waves right here at home that I'm usually bummed if I miss. I've actually flown home early from trips to score waves at home that rarely break, and am pretty damned stoked I did.
NK-Heavy Winter story?
TK-The heaviest thing that has ever happened to me happened 6 years ago on the North Shore. It was a pretty solid 8 to 10 foot day at sunset, I was sitting pretty deep on the bowl when this monster left came through. Going left is usually a bad idea out there considering the bone yard you end up in. The last thing I remember as the thing shut down on me was all those coral heads boiling up in front of me. I went of over the falls and took one of those pylons directly to the face. The pain was by no means unbearable but when I surfaced there was so much blood I figured I wasn't doing so good. I made my way to the beach and started to head back up to the house I was staying at. As I was walking up the beach this girl came running up to me asking if I needed to go to the hospital and that she could call an ambulance for me. I didn't think I was that bad, told her I was fine and walked up to the house. When I got back all the guys I was staying with started freaking out and when I finally looked in the mirror I immediately got really light headed and almost fainted. The wound below and above my right eye was pretty substantial. My lower eyelid had been completely torn back leaving the lower eye socket exposed. There was another large gash just above my eye about 3/4 of inch long. My friends quickly rushed me to the hospital in Wahiawa, and I remember distinctly the doctor jumping back in shock when I removed the bandage I had been holding over my eye. He ended up examining the wounds and told me he could not fix them considering all the muscle and tendon had been stripped from the bone. He explained that I would need a plastic surgeon if I ever wanted my eye to look normal again. As I left the hospital, a bit nervous to say the least, I called my mom and explained what had happened. As it turns out we had a family friend in Honolulu that was a plastic surgeon and eyelid specialist at that. LUCKY! After a four hour surgery which included forty interior stitches to put back together the muscle and tendon, twenty exterior stitches to close up the wound and then another ten to close up the cut above my eye I walked out with a massive headache. It's been six years since the incident and the job sowing up my eye was so good you can barely even notice a scar. The funny thing is though every time I'm back in Hawaii and I see some of those big left barrels coming through sunset I still get the urge to go get one. Maybe next time ill make it..
NK-favorite big wave spot?
TK-There are a bunch of big wave spots on the central coast that are unbelievable when they're on. I also have had some great sessions out at Rockpile in Hawaii.
NK-favorite big wave surfer?
TK-I love watching Flea, he's a Fucking maniac!!!

ADAM REPLOGLE

I really like the feeling of the seasons changing. The rain tells me its winter and next comes the smells of winter that bring back childhood memories. That has always got me pumped. Santa Cruz gets just enough rain to enjoy and never to much. Some of our best waves are formed by rain or the storm that usually comes w/rain. I really never feel like I am ready for winter and before you know it its here. Physically I try and surf as much as possible and cross train with tow surfing and long boarding. P.T once told me that the best training for surfing was surfing, so I try and surf as much as my life will let me. Mentally, I try and be as confident as i can be by being prepared. Do your home work, figure your guns out before you need them. Stuff like that. I freak out when the surfs good, everything come to a halt and then I call one of my surf partners Al, Mulcoy, Noi, Homer or Skindog alls these guys wake up early and will surf just about anything.
My favorite part about winter is riding waves that don't break in summer. The River Mouth, The Harbor and a few underground spots. We have this left at Pleasure Point that on the right angled swell it turns into a little pit. Winter also breaks up the crowd and who doesn't like that.
I would say that my heaviest winter surf trip would have to be to the North Shore. For around 10 years a lot of Santa Cruz boys would go to Hawaii and get pounded. Richard Schmidt showed us a few heavy surfs, I remember Peter Mel charging Waimea Bay as a 15 year old and Barney charging "TUBE CITY" which is inside Kamiland iand it’s heavy when its big.
My favorite winter time warrior would have to be Chris Brown. He is a classic.
Winter time means its a time to be challenged. A time to put your skills to the test. It means cold low pressures. It is a time when on any given swell our region could be the biggest surfable spot on earth. Winter time means you could see Garrett MacNamura at the bakery or Ross Clark Jones on the docks. Winter times means Alpha Males and P.W.Cs, Big wave events and the Cold Water Classic. Winter means "WAVES" and for a lot of people, myself included, it means surf season.

ALISTAIR CRAFT

NK-What does the the approach of winter mean to you? What kinds of feelings and emotions does this approach conjure up? How do you prepare (physically/mentally)?
AC-TO ME, THE APPROACH OF WINTER BRINGS A CERTAIN TYPE OF ANTICIPATION. AS I’VE AGED MY TIME IN THE WATER HAS STEADILY DECREASED, AND IN THE SUMMER I DON’T SURF A WHOLE LOT AS PRIORITIES HAVE SHIFTED. BUT IN THE WINTER MY MOTIVATION KICKS IN AND I DON’T WANT TO MISS A MOMENT WHEN THE CONDITIONS COME TOGETHER AT MY FAVORITE SPOTS. I HAD MY FIRST WINTER SURF THE OTHER DAY AND IT SURPRISED ME HOW STOKED I WAS. I PULLED INTO A CRAPPY CLOSE-OUT BARREL AND DIDN’T COME OUT. WHEN I SURFACED I CLAIMED IT.
MY MENTAL PREPARATION IS PRETTY SIMPLE. I’VE LEARNED TO STAY CALM WHEN ADAM YELLS AT ME. WHAT MORE PREPARATION DO I NEED?
PHYSICALLY, I RIDE MOUNTAIN BIKES IN THE SUMMER WITH MY WIFE AND A COUPLE FRIENDS. SHE’S A PERSONAL TRAINER SO OCCASIONALLY SHE’LL GET ME TO DO ONE OF HER CLASSES. I FIGURE IF I CAN KEEP HER IN MY SITE I’M DOING WELL. I’M PRETTY SURE SHE COULD KICK LAIRD’S ASS.
NK-Whats your favorite part about winter?
AC-I LOVE THE FIRST MORNING THAT YOU SENSE THE SEASON IS CHANGING. YOU WALK OUT YOUR FRONT DOOR AND YOUR TOES AND NOSE FEEL THE CHILL AND YOU KNOW WINTER IS ON ITS WAY. YOU CAN SMELL IT IN THE AIR.
NK-Heaviest Winter surf trip?
AC-IT’S EASIER FOR ME TO RECALL HEAVY MOMENTS RATHER THAN HEAVY TRIPS. THE FUNNY THING IS, WHEN I THINK ABOUT IT, SNIPS IS PART OF MOST OF THOSE MEMORIES. HE HAS A WAY OF LURING ME INTO HEAVY SESSIONS. THE FIRST TRIP I MADE WITH HIM WAS IN 90 SOMETHING WITH TAYLOR KNOX AND RB TO TODOS SANTOS. WE PULL UP AND IT’S GIANT AND BLOWN TO HELL. I ASSUME WE’RE OUT OF THERE AN NEXT THING YOU KNOW SNIPS IS PUTTING HIS WETSUIT ON. I DON’T WANT TO BE THE WUSS SO I START SUITING UP AS WELL. TAYLOR STARTS CURSING SNIPS UNDER HIS BREATH AND NEXT THING YOU KNOW WERE ALL TAKING BEATINGS. BROKEN LEASHES, BROKEN BOARDS, BROKEN ... I CAN REPEAT THIS STORY A DOZEN TIMES IN A DOZEN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS.
NK-Favorite Winter time warrior?
AC-PETER MEL HAS ALWAYS BEEN A FAVORITE, AND IF YOUR ASKING ABOUT WINTERTIME SPECIFICALLY, HE IS THE GUY. UNQUESTIONABLE TALENT IN BIG WAVES. THERE ARE PLENTY OF GUYS LIKE ME, DUMB ENOUGH TO GO ON A BIG ONE, BUT ONLY A HANDFUL OF GUYS THAT “SURF” A BIG WAVE. PETER IS THE BEST. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY PETER IS A GOOD PERSON, HUMBLE AND GENEROUS. MY FAVORITE SURFER IN ALL CONDITIONS IS ADAM REPLOGLE. ASK MOST GUYS IN SANTA CRUZ AND HE’S TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE LIST. BEST STYLE, POSITIONING… I’LL ALWAYS HAVE A PLACE IN MY HEART FOR RUFFO. WE WALK IN DIFFERENT CIRCLES BUT I’VE ALWAYS RESPECTED HIS APPROACH TO SURFING UP HERE. HE DOES’NT JUST SURF THE LANE, HE SURFS EVERY SPOT WHEN IT’S CONDITIONS ARE IDEAL. I LEARNED A LOT FROM HIM THAT WAY. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, HOW ABOUT DONKEY DWAYNE? NO ONE SURFS MORE THAN DWAYNE, NO MATTER HOW SHITTY IT IS.
NK-What does Winter time in Santa cruz mean?
AC-I’M PRETTY SURE WHEN I’M OLD AND DECREPID, MY KIDS ARE PUSHING ME AROUND IN MY WHEELCHAIR AND MY UNFORTUNATE WIFE IS CHAINGING MY DIAPERS, MY FONDEST MEMORIES OTHER THAN FAMILY ARE GOING TO BE THE WINTERS THAT ADAM AND I HAVE SPENT AT MOSS LANDING. WE’VE HAD SO MANY GOOD SESSIONS AND SUCH GOOD TIMES THESE PAST FEW YEARS. THEY MAY BE COMING TO AN END SOON FOR VARIOUS REASONS, BUT THE MEMORIES WILL ALWAYS BE THERE.
NK-How do you adjust your quiver for Winter time?
AC-HERE’S HOW I ADJUST MY QUIVER FOR WINTERTIME. I CALL MY SHAPER IN JULY AND ORDER SOME BOARDS. I START BUGGING HIM IN AUGUST. IN SEPTEMBER I HECKLE HIM AND CALL HIM FAT. INOCTOBER I YELL. IN NOVEMBER I TELL HIM I’M GOING TO ORDER BOARDS FROM SOMEONE ELSE. IN DECEMBER I’M A LITTLE NICER TO HIM, BEING CHRISTMAS AND ALL. HE’S VERY SENSITIVE. IN JANUARY I CALL HIM EVERY TIME I’M ON MY WAY FOR A SURF, AND WHEN I’M ON MY WAY HOME. BY FEBRUARY I FIGURE IT’S ALL OVER SO I LEAVE HIM ALONE. THE BOARDS SHOW UP IN MARCH SO I’M LUCKY IF I RIDE THEM ONCE. MAYBE THIS YEAR I’LL START THE PROCESS IN APRIL. BUT THOSE BOARDS ARE WORTH THE WAIT. THE TRUTH IS I’VE BEEN RIDING THE SAME BOARD FOR 4 YEARS AND NO OTHERS COMPARE. THANKS COLE!

SC LEGENDS

2008-12-14T16:04:00.000-08:00

The Condor, spreading his wings. photo Patrick Tehan

PETER MEL AKA THE CONDOR, SC LEGEND

Swooping down at break neck speeds, using his gigantic wingspan to steady himself, the Condor falls from the sky. More often than not the Condor (aka Peter Mel), lands smoothly, with style and grace to boot. Pete is arguably one of the most complete surfers on earth, going full bore on anything from 2’ to 50’. Pete has deep Santa Cruz roots, with the incredible ability to make friends wherever he goes (Which helps to explain the fact he’s a South, West, and East side local). Pete helps his dad run Freeline surf shop on 41st avenue, so from time to time you might spot him behind the counter pretending to work. A go to guy for advice or a chat, Pete’s got some knowledge. Nowadays he’s been putting this knowledge and insight to work, by working as a commentator for a number of different QS’s and WCT contests, and you can always count on him to speak his mind. Pete’s a great representative of Santa Cruz and surfing in general, and its good to see him still charging and taking his licks like a young buck.

WTF?

2008-12-14T15:55:00.000-08:00

Going for it! photo-jack english (transworldsurf.com)

Giant surf at Mavericks

A core group of hell men recently tackled some of the largest and heaviest surf ever paddled into. As thirty foot bombs detonated upon Maverick’s eerie reef, chargers such as Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Mark Healy, Greg Long, Nic Lamb, Taylor Paul, Lance Herriman, Skin Dog, Alex Martins, Nathan Fletcher and Shawn Dollar all proved their bravery by taking off deep and steep on waves usually reserved for Tow-ins. Guy’s were falling like flies, and Mavericks was all too willing to swat them down mercilessly. While the carnage was considerable, a number of all time rides and awe inspiring feats of fearlessness went down, and it will be a day this group of big wave brethren will surely remember.

Little Shit's

2008-11-24T12:18:00.000-08:00

Kai-Lining- photo-Thomas Bischoff

Kai Medeiros has some new friends. As an avid long boarder at Pleasure Point, he’s always enjoyed the presence of testy short boarders and treacherous beginners. Now, Kai has some awesome new neighbors in the lineup.

“On a nice summer day at the Point, my surf buddies can often include what seems like 500 people. For example, this afternnon I had the pleasure of surfing with a number of disciples of the new movement known as SUP (Stand Up Paddling). They must been really friendly, because they wanted to share every set wave with me and went out of their way to make sure that I would never be lonely on a wave,” he explains of his newfound friendship.

Despite the clogged lineups, Kai has been determined to better his surf game, and the results are starting to show, as he currently sits in first in the ISF High School Men’s Long Board division.

When he’s not dodging donkey’s and dorks at the Point, Kai uses his focus for sports,school, and volunteer work. As a Junior at Harbor High school, Kai currently holds down a 3.7 GPA, plays on the Water Polo Team and swims with the Varsity swim team. He also volunteers as a surfing escort with the Ride A Wave Program, which allows disabled and/or disadvantaged children and adults to experience the ocean and ocean-related activities.

With a good head on his shoulders, and talent to spare, Kai is on track to establish himself as an esteemed and respected Santa Cruz surfer in no time.

SC LEGENDS

2008-11-07T09:36:00.000-08:00

ADAM REPLOGLE, AKA ROADIE

Adam Replogle began his journey as a Santa Cruz surfer as a mere tadpole, wriggling his way down the line at his favorite break, 1st Jetty in Capitola. Cappy is a traditional training ground for the region's aquatic youth, and helped develop young Adam's developing skills. Those skills improved when Adam took his pint sized act to the reeling rights found at Pleasure Point. As he grew, young Roadie developed an intimate relationship with the Point, surfing the place religiously and passionately. In return the Point has blessed him with one of the smoothest, tack sharp, powerful, and graceful style found on the planet. Roadie remains one of Santa Cruz's most accomplished professional surfers, a former World Tour competitor who proved his worth in stunning displays of power and flow at venues such as Jeffrey's Bay in South Africa. Nowadays, Roadie is busy raising a family, and running his successful Billabong Surf Shop. In between mentoring young grommets like Nic H'dez and his obligations to his work and family, Roadie still finds time to skirk out to the Point and blow every one's mind with his effortless shredding skills.

Community

2008-11-07T09:31:00.000-08:00

The Core find a home
Neal Kearney - Sentinel correspondent
The Core has found a permanent home in Santa Cruz Skate Shop on 41st Avenue.

When Kim Clary started The Core in 2002, she had a clear vision what was needed for her nonprofit youth organization to succeed.

She knew the support of the community would be vital and that she would need entertaining and beneficial ideas for events and meetings. But finding a permanent home for the kids to hang out was key.

Now in its sixth year, The Core has grown tremendously thanks to community involvement packaged with a popular schedule of events including surf competitions like the Schralpfest and dodgeball tournaments.

Thanks to the generosity of Santa Cruz Skate Shop owner Danny Keith, starting today The Core will have a new home. Keith, a longtime supporter of The Core, has donated a section of his newly opened shop to the organization.

The area includes couches, a big-screen TV, an Xbox, a DVD player, foosball table, a ping-pong table and pool table. Eventually they plan to a homework computer station.

Fifteen-year-old Pleasure Point resident Seven Adams is one of many Core members eagerly awaiting the headquarters' grand opening.

"It means everything to the kids because if they are ever having a hard time at home or at school, or at life in general, they have somewhere to go and someone to talk to," Adams said.

"It's also a great place to go relax and just hang out with your friends in an accepting, fun and cool atmosphere."

Clary said she wanted to give kids something she never got to experience as a kid.

"Now that we have a full-time place to call our own, we can hang out every day," Clary said. "All I wanted when I was a teenager was a cool place to hang out with my friends because there really isn't that much to do in S.C. ... Now that I am a little older, I recognize the fact that if kids have a positive place to be and a great group to associate with, they are less likely to become involved in any of the number of negative things that entice our precious young people." Contact Neal Kearney at 429-2436 or jcopeland@santacruzsentinel.com.

If You Go
WHAT: The Core Open House. WHEN: 8 p.m. Friday. HOURS: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. WHERE: Santa Cruz Skate Shop, 912 41st Ave., Capitola. INFORMATION: 227-4204 or kim@kimclary.net.

Politix

2008-11-07T09:18:00.000-08:00

PRESIDENT ELECT OBAMA!!!

Here at FrothSchpot we cannont express enough relief regarding the Nation's latest transfer of power. We had our Banana Boats rigged tight for an overseas exodus in case McLame had won. Now the midget slaves we had conscripted to man our sails can rest easy, as we aint goin no where! Hopefully we can turn the tide and erase all of the Bush scented skid marks from our national consciousness and work towards bringing about constructive change! America, Fuck Yah!

WQS UPDATE- CWC Day 3

2008-10-24T17:16:00.000-07:00

Cold Water Classic: Local surfers turning up the heat against international field

Neal Kearney - Sentinel Correspondent

SANTA CRUZ -- Santa Cruz experienced some summer-like conditions Thursday during Day 3 of the O'Neill Cold Water Classic. But the warmth of the sun had nothing on the heat brought by local surfers.

Facing a flurry of explosive surfing from a highly skilled international contingency, Santa Cruz's best held its own. Ten local surfers reached the round of 64 either through surfing or seeding, and one has already claimed his spot in the round of 32.

Midtown surfer Jimmy Herrick continued his Cold Water campaign, placing second in his round-of-96 heat Thursday morning. Herrick, who surfed his way through the Local Trials, earned a berth into the round of 64 -- known as the money rounds because contestants are guaranteed to take home at least $700 -- by managing to lock in some significant scores.

"The waves were fun again today, and I was able to pick off a couple good ones," Herrick said.

"All the heats are tight here, so I'm just stoked to keep it going, so stoked to make the money round. Now I'll have some cash to spend when I head to Mexico in a couple weeks!"

Today, Herrick will have to shine, as he faces some stiff competition from Hawaii's Hank Gaskell and South Africa's Nicholas Godfrey.

Locals Josh Mulcoy, Omar Etcheverry, and Randy "The Kid" Bonds also made it through the round of 96, which was completed early in the day.

The first eight heats of money rounds kicked off as well, as the Lane continued to pump with fun surf. Kieran Horn and Bud Freitas were the only two Santa Cruz surfers to surf their round of 64 heats Thursday, with Freitas emerging as the sole survivor. Freitas laced a combination of carving slashes to win his heat in a convincing fashion.

"Local boy Bud Freitas really stepped it up. This event is his time to shine, and it looks like he's starting to put it together," said event commentator and Westside pro Peter Mel. "I know he's struggled in the past, so it's awesome to see him get on a roll with those first two heats. I think this next round [round of 32] will be a crucial. If he overcomes it, I'd say that he could bring it through to the final."

The remaining round of 64 heats begin today, with local surfers Nat Young, Jason Collins, and Noi Kaulukukui looking to start their Cold Water campaigns with a bang. Young and Collins will face up against up fellow local Josh Loya, as well as Huntington Beach's Brandon Guillmette, in a highly anticipated clash in today's first heat, which begins at 8 a.m. For Young, the heat is a chance to surf against local legends whom he has looked up to his whole life.

"I'm amped. The waves are good. I'm stoked that the forecast looks good for tomorrow," Young said. He added he's "really excited to surf against Rat and Loya, which is also cool because it means at least two locals will make it [to the next round]." The heats only get heavier from here on out, especially with international talent flooding the contest.

Surfers like South Africa's Quintin Jones and Australia's Nick Riley won their heats, joining a highly focused force of foreign performers eager to keep the title out of local hands.

Another standout performer Thursday morning was Kauai's Sebastian Zietz. Zietz, who just returned from a three-week stint in Bali, overcame the extreme change in conditions to post the highest single wave score of the event so far. Zietz unleashed a combination of fin-blasting tail drifts and power hacks to rack up the a score of 9.5 out of 10.

Mel said he wasn't surprised by Zietz's performance, noting his ability to excel in good surf.
"It's good to see Sebastian do his thing. He's proved his adeptness in point break surf before, with some great results at waves like Trestles in San Clemente," Mel said. "He's got flair, a knack for finding waves with scoring potential, and just looks really comfortable out there. He's one of my favorites to watch for sure."

Along with the international hotshots and a colorful cast of hometown heroes remaining in the event, a building Northwest swell ensures the weekend will be packed with excitement. Despite increased pressure from this onslaught of aggressive outsiders, it's a good bet the remaining locals will do their best to rise to the occasion and keep the heat on the competition.

Community

2008-10-23T17:05:00.000-07:00

Gailen Webb went all out in decorating his windjammer Bar in Aptos bar for... (Dan Coyro/Sentinel)

Little bar of horrors: Aptos's Windjammer features spooky Halloween decor

NEAL KEARNEY - Sentinel Correspondent

Mangled corpses hang limply from nooses. Disfigured demons tower threateningly, baring razor sharp teeth. Wicked witches leer, grasping broom sticks. These are some of the frightening new regulars being spotted lately at the Windjammer Cocktail Lounge in Aptos. And they are just a small sample of the elaborate Halloween-themed decorations that owner Gailen Webb has accumulated over the past six years.

Every October, Webb gets busy unpacking a plethora of over-the-top Halloween displays and decorations from storage. From menacing mutants to ghastly ghouls, Webb has just about every monster and ghost imaginable strung and propped up around the entire space. He's even gone as far as to utilize the building's unique loft feature above the bar, creating a mind-boggling, three-dimensional scene of fright and terror.

"Every year I get to look forward to setting this stuff up. I just get a kick out of it," Webb said proudly. "It all started during my long stint as a sales rep for Anheuser-Busch. Holidays are great times for businesses to offer theme-driven displays to attract customers' interest. I had a lot of fun doing the displays and all that, and once I became the owner of the Windjammer, I carried that enthusiasm over to my bar."

Stepping inside Webb's little bar of horrors, your brain is immediately overloaded with visual stimuli. A dizzying display of lights is strung intricately across the entire place. Your eyes are assailed by the lights, from neon orange to the always creepy black light. The use of the black light is especially effective in the loft display, a Fright Night scene in which the strobing black light illuminates the cob web ridden dead zone full of rotten zombies and grimacing skeletons.

A creature-feature gang of ghouls and monsters are strategically placed to create a jaw-dropping spooky atmosphere. But it doesn't stop there. The bar is chock full of Halloween displays and decorations, such as tombstones, zombie family portraits, and interactive displays, including a cackling, jiggling witch.

"It's gotten to the point that even the people who come in here every day notice something that they hadn't noticed before, and that's what makes it so cool. It's something that just builds on itself and gets more elaborate every year," says Webb, reflecting on what drives him to invest so much time and money every year to outdo his past efforts.

He estimates that he spends up 70 to 80 hours putting the decorations up, and 20 to 30 to take them down. It's a great deal of work, yet Webb knows that he can count on the support of the community, from donations or even input on how to enhance or tweak his elaborate setup.

The Windjammer isn't the only business in the Rancho del Mar shopping center that embraces the Halloween spirit. In fact, the entire complex hosts a Safe Halloween event, in which vendors pass out candy in a safe, friendly environment for the youngsters. The Windjammer also puts on a number of Halloween-inspired events, such as a pumpkin carving contest and costume parties all Halloween weekend.

Longtime Windjammer regular Rhonda Leonardo of Aptos looks forward to seeing what kind of craziness Webb can cook up when Halloween rolls around.

"You can tell that Gailen is really into pleasing his customers. The same also goes for every other time of the year, but Halloween he goes all out," Leonardo said. "It's a real family in here and Gailen truly takes pleasure in showing off his latest finds. He also gives a lot to the kids so it's a pretty neat thing."

Along with hosting a pumpkin carving contest for the kids, the Windjammer is also selling Pumpkin Pin-Ups for $1 or $5 in an effort to help raise money for St. Jude Children's Research Hospital.

For Webb, seeing people's initial reaction to his spooky bar is the most gratifying part. "It's all about shock and awe, and every year we continue our all out approach and try to make it a little different. It's always hard to beat the year before, but we're always finding ways to outdo ourselves every time Halloween rolls around."

WQS update- CWC Day 1

2008-10-22T12:07:00.001-07:00

Midtown surfer Jimmy Herrick plants a hand as he plans his next move during the second semi final for locals. Herrick advanced and will surf Wednesday

SANTA CRUZ SURFERS OWN DAY ONE OF O'NEILL COLDWATER CLASSIC

By Neal KearneySentinel Correspondent

SANTA CRUZ — Santa Cruz has become a cauldron of surfing overflowing with talent. With upstarts like Anthony Tashnick and Noi Kaulukukui bubbling up behind legends like Peter Mel and Adam Replogle, there is little room for upward mobility for lesser-known surfers. Sometimes, truly gifted surfers get left in the shadows. The O’Neill Coldwater Classic at Steamer Lane, which began Tuesday under blue skies and highly contestable conditions, is a golden opportunity for such under-rated surfers to put on their “A” game and show the world their stuff. Jimmy Herrick is one of those surfers. Herrick, a 23-year-old Santa Cruz native, has developed a reputation among the Santa Cruz surf community as an amped and ambitious waterman, known to step it up no matter what the ocean throws his way. Although respected, Herrick rarely receives recognition for his efforts, watching on the sidelines as the Santa Cruz elite enjoy high-profile sponsorships and extensive media play.On Tuesday, Herrick seized the spotlight. He moved on in all three heats he surfed, advancing all the way to the round of 128 from the Local Trials. Russell Smith, Nic Lamb and Joe Hutson also advanced into the main event out of the Local Trials — established to thin out the glut of talented Santa Cruz surfers wanting to compete in the contest. By the end of the day, only Russell and Herrick had earned the right to surf today.In his heats, Herrick used his backhand to deliver a blistering assault of off-the-top maneuvers, surfing his waves with vigor in an clearly inspired performance.“Jimmy was really ripping,” said former Cold Water champion Kieran Horn during an afternoon session at Pleasure Point, where he was practicing for his first heat Thursday at Steamer Lane. Horn is a seeded surfer, meaning he earned enough points in other World Qualifying Series events to be placed directly into the round of 64. Like Herrick, Carmel native Johnny Craft made his heat Tuesday, and will continue today in the round of 128, which is scheduled to begin at 8 a.m.“I’ve never seen Jimmy surf like that, it was sick!” Craft said of Herrick. “It’s good to see him blow up like that.”A slew of Santa Cruz shredders successfully advanced through to the round of 128. They proved their familiarity with the waters by negotiating the Lane’s warbly walls and tricky backwash. Among them Ashton Madeley, Josh Loya, Omar Etcheverry, Randy Bonds, TJ Mikus, Brandon Barnes, Josh Mulcoy and Matthew Myers.Throughout the week, other Santa Cruz favorites will join in the fray. Mel, Bud Freitas and the always lethal Jason “Ratboy” Collins will be looking to stamp their authority and return the CWC trophy to local hands. Horn was the last local to win it, doing so in 2003. Last year Jordy Smith of South Africa claimed the CWC title. For Herrick, the challenge is to carry his current consistency through to future heats and stay focused throughout the event. “It’s so hard to make these heats, especially the trials this morning — so many good surfers,” he said. “But I’m psyched to advance and watch some of my friends, like Myers and Mulcoy, do good. I think we feed off each other, and it’s good to see the boys advance.” With a highly talented international field in town to hold the local crew at bay, Herrick has definitely got his work cut out for him. However, if he keeps it up, he just might find himself in contention for a CWC title, and a secure place within Santa Cruz’s surfing lore.Contact Neal Kearney at sports@santacruzsentinel.com.

Community

2008-10-15T17:43:00.000-07:00

Gromz.com Alumni Jimmy Herrick blowing tail

As a youth, Gromz.com founder Jason Miller was like any other surf psyched grommet coming up in the ultra competitive talent pool. He had the desire and determination to make something out of his surfing. Although Miller developed a mean gaff and gained extensive tube knowledge, he found his calling in the sales industry. Around this time Miller launched Gromz.com, a talent agency for young extreme athletes, in which they can promote themselves, creating profiles with pictures and biographical information. Miller created the site because he wished he had something similar when he was a grom. Miller has recently re-vamped the site, and if your a frothing little guy it would be in your best interest to scope it and join ASAP. As a former Gromz.com member, I cannot praise the site enough, as it was a big deal for me as a grub to have my skills recognized on a sick website made just for groms. Check out the site at www.Gromz.com

Pass The Green!

2008-10-15T11:08:00.000-07:00

Hey Chad, Pass the Green! ph.mikeJones Azhiaziam

Even before Sean Penn graced the screens in Fast Times at Ridgemont High as Jeff Spicoli, the zorbed out beach bum, the public's perception of surfer's has been that of stoned, out of touch, out of reach degenerates. In many respects, this view had it's merits. The 1960's and 70's were a time of experimentation and drug use, and surfer's, with their free lifestyles and unique personalities, were no exception. Many surfers of the era, including such big names as Michael Peterson and Cheyne Horan, have admitted to being heavily doped up even at the peak of their career.

It was Spicoli, however, who cemented the stoned out, surf bum image into that of the popular imagination. Since then, most depictions of surfer's in the media have been that of ripped space cadets on a search for munchies, glossy eyed numbskulls whose primary function is to provide comic relief. Such stereotypes have negatively affected hopes for the legitimization of surfing. You know what I say? I say that surfer's should embrace the Cannabis connection. After all, these days Green is in, and companies of every sort are scrambling to incorporate any kind of eco-friendly components into their products. A handful of large surf companies have integrated "Green" or eco-friendly aspects into their marketing campaign (think board shorts made from recycled bottles, etc), and the rest of the industry has taken notice.

Like all fads and crazes, this environmental push started with dedicated individuals, whose motives reflect a deep concern for the preservation of the Earth, not a desire to keep up with the latest movements. For these environmentalists, while this shift to eco-consciousness has been long overdue, it allows them to bring their product to the mainstream. Meet Los Osos, California's Chad Jackson, a year old surfer/shaper who aims to advocate awareness with his eco-friendly, hemp surfboards. Along with his shaping, Chad is an experienced waterman, and he swears by his hemp boards in all conditions, from 2' to 20'. I recently caught up with Chad in his shaping room in Los Osos, to discuss his love for nature, sources of inspiration, and where he plans to take his hemp based surfboard revolution.

Neal-How did you get involved?
Chad-I have always been a nature freak growing up in the beautiful central cal and hawaii, and have had a dream since I was about 17 to link the environmental movement to the surfing world and help change the world at large. I went to Cal Poly SLO for 8 years studying physics and engineering until finally graduating under Earth Sciences, where my professors beat into me the problems our generation will face and how we can solve them with science. I have now committed my life to being a leader in the environmental movement through surfing, traveling and networking.

NK-What kinds of materials are you using and where do they come from?
CJ-I am shaping blanks made from soybean oil and sugarcane oil, biofoam and ice-9 respectively. They are 100% non-petroleum and are getting closer and closer to being equivalent in strength and performance to the old clark foam. A few years ago I linked up with Neftali Espino, a surfer-shaper like myself, and Aaron Carvajal, owner of USHempCo. Nef and I were laminating regular surfboards with hemp cloth we were getting from Aaron. 3 years later, the dust has cleared and I am now grassing non-petrol blanks with hemp cloth and finishing them with a non-petrol resin. The result is the first high performance fully functional eco-board the world has seen. I am partnered up with USHempCo and another company Local, and we are bringing these boards and a whole line of hemp clothing to the market and the surf industry. I have been riding these boards for a year now and I am able to ride the tube as deep as ever and whip airs like I am on a surftech popout.

NK-How does your archaelogy training and interest in Indian life and culture fit in? (maybe somethin about Indians living off the land, using organic materials and such, benefits of hemp etc?)
CJ-I have been doing archeology on the central coast with the Chumash and Salinan Indians for 4 years, a nice escape from the uber-hype of the surf scene. This has definitely cultivated an even stronger connection for me to the land, ocean and culture of indigenous peoples. The link between these cultures and the land and ocean is inseparable. Like the Polynesians and other maritime cultures there is and always has been a fine line between living in harmony and over-exploiting the natural resources of an area. The Native Americans lived by the rule of the seventh generation. It meant that they only harvested the resources of nature to the extent that there would still be ample supply for six more generations into the future ensuring that the seventh generation would enjoy the same bountifulness as the current generation. Ya think George Bush and the powers that be are taking this into consideration? More like fuck the future I'm gonna get mine. There is an inner-sense of comfort you feel when working among old Indian sites. You imagine the same peacefulness that exists in some Asian cultures where every chore is done with utmost care and flow always grateful for the gifts nature provides for us. Also inherent is the remembrance of defeat and conquest of the people and the loss of their way of life. All this motivates me and others to protect and bring back the ways of the Indian and indigenous cultures the world over. Hemp can play a big role in this as many indigenous cultures can grow hemp on their reservations for industrial uses. Hemp can grow on the most impoverished of lands and can reclaim non-fertile soils in a few years. The thousand of uses for the hemp plant, its vigor and its magic make it the number one plant to turn around global warming and replace petro-chemicals with bio-based polymers, fuels, fibers and food.

NK-Where do you plan on taking your board building?
CJ-I am going to continue bringing in new bio-technology as it is perfected and market the boards to the world at large. We are going BIG with this and one thing is myself and my team riders are going to travel and compete and blow minds in and out of the water basically proving that these boards perform identical to petrol boards, so it will be a no-brainer.

NK-How does working with hemp differ from fiberglass?
CJ-A little harder to saturate and sand, but the micro dust is nowhere near as toxic and bad for the user.

NK-What are the benefits of eco-friendly board building?
CJ-Less impact on the respiratory and skin of the user and of course way better for the environment and economy.

NK-What do you see boards being made with say 50 years in the future?
CJ-Full on bio, not one speck of petroleum and possibly surfboards being grown on trees.

Little Shit's

2008-10-12T18:19:00.001-07:00

Growing up in the Hater capital of the world, AKA Santa Cruz, one must develop a thick skin a young age. Despite the beautiful landscape and perfect surf, it seems that everyone’s got a chip on their shoulder. Heckles and taunts are as predictable as ice cream headaches around here, and there are countless individuals who would jump at the chance to belittle even their closest of friends. Of those affected, grommets suffer from this hazing the most. Due to their naivety and inability to fight back, there’s little they can do to avoid the wrath of their disgruntled elders.
Now imagine being a grom that also happens to long board. The possibilities for ridicule and torture are endless. Young SC upstart Kyle Jouras doesn’t seem to let such stigma affect him. He’s too psyched on surfing to really give a damn. Over the past few years, Kyle has earned a place in the lineup at Pleasure Point, amazing those who witness his progressive approach to long boarding. His style combines a mix of old school cruising with a dose of spinning and slashing new school maneuvers. Much like the late great Jay Moriarity, Kyle’s positive and respectful attitude supersedes the fact that he happens to long board. Here at Frothschpot, we can’t help but wonder what kind of damage Kyle could dish out if he jumped on a short board. For now however, it seems Kyle is content with the couple extra feet, and the way he’s been ripping lately it’s hard to hold it against him.

What's The Deal?

2008-10-12T18:17:00.000-07:00

What’s the deal with this cold water? Last week we were frolicking joyfully in the breakers wearing nothing but our knickers. Now, judging by the way our testicles have retreated into the depths of our stomach’s, it’s safe to say Fall is here. The flurry of chilly, windy weather we’ve been experiencing has done a good job blowing off the top layer of the ocean’s warm water, resulting in a wicked upwelling that has turned the water icy. For us surfers, Fall and the onset of winter are good omens. However, such a drastic change in water temp is a cruel reminder of the extreme nature of winter time. Time to bust out the 5/4/3!

Industry Notes

2008-10-12T18:04:00.000-07:00

Sollife news July-August ‘08

This is a bi-monthly newsletter catching you up on the going ons of sollifesurfboards and the worldwide group of characters associated with the brand. Australia, well, winter is made a bold statement this year! A lot of good winter waves around the country but not much on the Goldcoast.Perth team rider Mitch Taylor has been scoring a lot of good waves up and down the west coast. MNM boardriders had their august comp with the Pirie family, Dave,Lance and Calvin all representing sollife with division wins!!! Wollongong sollife team rider CobyNau spent some time getting shacked all over indo, before coming home to Woonona wedges and scoring a perfect 10 in the boardriders!!! Congrats Coby. Coach Bazza Stace reckons Cobys surfing has gone through the roof since he joined the sollife family.We are stoked he is part of it and look forward to big things from Coby over the next few years.
We have just about finished the new factory showroom remodel at our Kirra factory. The new space has some promo pics of sollife riders and a nice board display. We have a lounge area where you can watch vids and talk surfboards. There is also a great display of fins from arcade. A wide range of mal fins as well as fcs replacement helite fins, glass on helites and beautiful polished fiberglass quads and twins for future boxes. So come on in and check it out. Everyone is welcome. The address is 11-13 #3 Ourimbah Rd. Tweed Heads.We are the first factories on your left after you turn down Ourimbah Rd. In Europe, our top intl. team rider and sollife family member Damien Chaudoy has been ripping! He started the ASP euro tour with a couple of 5ths and is one result shy right now of qualifying for the ASP junior world champs in Narrabeen in January!!!Go Damien!!! 1 event left, Damien is only 18 though so he does have two more years in the division. He has also been loving his new epoxy board! Says it is great for airs and fly’s over dead sections!!! Former sollife team rider, and family member for life Che Stang from California was cool enough to take Damien’s boards over to him on his way to three European WQS events. We are hoping to get Che back on sollife sometime very soon. Damien will be surfing in the last junior in Portugal and the 6 star there next month, then home to Reunion island for a family catch up before returning to Australia via Hawaii to train for next season and get fresh boards. He loves snapper and will be out there all summer getting shacked behind the rock. California is the place sollife shaper Scott Crump spent most of July and August scoring some fun but smelly surf and shaping in Oceanside. Sunny Garcia was spotted ripping on his sollife and WQS ripper Nate Yeomens of rusty ordered up a weapon or two. Scott watched the USopen and visited some accounts, shaping a lot of custom boards for the crew there and doing some of our new modern mal models too!Santa Cruz sollife family member Neal Kearney spent most of the northern hemisphere summer scoring barrels in Bali!!! Padang Padang was a fav as was keramas.He scored an epic backhand vert shot at Keramas, we are using it in our new Surfshot(California mag) ad for next month.Neal also scored some pics in the new mondo rad magazine.He writes for the mags as well as blows up in the surf…talented dude! You will be seeing a lot more of sollife in surfshot this coming year.While in California Scott secured a factory partnership for sollife, giving us an awesome place to make boards and service our accounts there. Scott will be spending a lot more time there over the next couple of years pumping up the southern and northern California markets. Brian Tognozzi from Pacifica has been spotted absolutely tearing on a fresh sollife that our nor cal distributor Mike Marshall hooked him up with. B.T. is a big talent coming out of the foggy region…we are amped to have him representing for sollife up there. Ok…that’s the wrap. Keep an eye out for our revamped http://www.sollifesurfboards.com/ website. And check out www.myspace.com/sollifesurfboards for an interview with shaper scott crump about our new epoxy model board. They go off!!!

Little Shits

2008-09-28T11:47:00.000-07:00

"Don't call me Runt!" photo- Wilson

This featured Little Shit has some pretty big shoes to fill. Literally. Anthony Dunn's pop's is Peter Mel, world renowned big wave surfer, commentator, and giant human. With the nickname "Runt", it seemed as though young Anthony might not live up to the stocky 6 foot+ frame of his dad. As of late, however, Dunn has experienced quite a growth spurt and it seems as though he may be ready to one day ditch the Runt nickname. Dunn has always been a frothed out grommet, with a stretched out grin permanently splitting his freckled mug, seen milking tiny reforms with his crew of little hell raisers. Nowadays, Dunn is a junior in high school, hangs with the big boys, and has been seen throwing a little more spray and dropping in on bigger waves. In fact, last Winter I saw little Dunn air drop a pretty heavy left hander at a pretty heavy unnamed East Side slab. Dunn has put on some inches, now it's time for him to put on the lbs, and with that, I figure he'll continue to turn heads and make a name for himself in surfing. He may be Dunn, but he ain't done yet!

SC LEGENDS

2008-09-28T11:39:00.000-07:00

Who's your Daddy? photo- Reuben Ruiz

Who’s on it? Ruff’s on it. Always. In fact, he’s been on it for over two decades, ruling SC since most of you were suckling on your mother’s teat. Anthony Ruffo has attained top dawg status here in Santa Cruz, achieving respect and admiration for his dedicated, all or nothing approach to surfing. From Big Sur to San Francisco, Ruffo can be found wherever the waves are pumping, and is commonly spotted sussing out obscure sandbars and reefs in his black truck. Ruff’s knack for finding nugs is a result of his experiences scouring the coast line looking for ride able surf when Santa Cruz isn’t producing. He knows this coast like the back of his hand. Speaking of backsides, Ruff’s got one of the most polished and eye pleasing styles in town. No. I’m not talking about his rear end, although homeboy is in pretty good shape. Ruff’s low center of gravity and smooth bottom turn’s are a staple at Steamer Lane, and he uses them to slingshot himself off the Slot for vicious vertical hacks and unnerving under the lip gaffs. Though he’s a born and raised West Sider for life, Ruffo is boys with pretty much everyone in Santa Cruz. This universal approach to friendship and comradery is something Ruff’s known for, and is reflected in his start-up clothing company, Allsydz Clothing. Allsydz recognizes strength in unity, and emphasizes Santa Cruz’s importance as a whole. Santa Cruz may be divided by theoretical “sides”, but when it comes down to it, we’re all a family, and all “sides” constitute one united Santa Cruz. In short, Ruffo rules Santa Cruz and beyond, and shows no signs of slowing down, so remember to respect this SC Legend.

SCHPOT CHECK- BALI

2008-09-13T11:18:00.000-07:00

Close to Heaven

Within the island chain of Indonesia lies an place like no other. Long has it enticed foreign travelers, with it’s tropical clime and stunning landscape. The first outsiders to stake claim to the island paradise known as Bali were Dutch traders, who utilized the land as a colonial outpost. The first surfers to explore it where a group of young Australian adventurer’s in the 1970’s, who were stunned to find such superb surf, so close to home. Since then, surfers of all nationalities have flocked to Bali to test their skill in its challenging surf, and immerse themselves in its rich, exotic culture.

Nowadays, Bali is transforming rapidly. Development and expansion have grown exponentially, and places, which have existed for hundreds of years as self-sustaining agricultural communities, are quickly becoming restaurants and shopping centers. Lush forests have given way to concrete monstrosities, the once simple landscape reshaped to suit the needs of a burgeoning tourist economy.

For traveling surfers, this change has resulted in a kind of Disneyland experience. Not only are the waves some of the best the world has to offer, but also there are numerous options for pleasure when the waves aren’t happening. There’s no limit to the number of ways to spend your time in Bali, and depending on your individual taste and preference, it could be a many number of things.

Bali Lush's

If partying is thing, you won’t be disappointed. There’s no shortage of discotheques and clubs of every type in the urban hub of Kuta to get your groove on in. You might decide to go high class and sip Cosmo’s at sunset at the ultra expensive Ku De Ta. Or you may find the flashing strobe lights and thumping electro-house music of the Sky Garden more to your liking. After midnight and enough stiff drinks, you could always make your way to the Bounty to mix it up with hundreds of sweaty, piss drunk Aussies and other assorted foreign youngsters.

Bounty Filth Fest

For the serious surfer, trying the healthy, low profile route could pay off when the surf picks up. There are tons of places to do yoga, get massaged, and eat healthy food throughout the island, and if you’re serious about fitness, there are a number of gyms available as well. The Bukit peninsula is a perfect place to escape the non-stop partying and pollution of Kuta.

Flat Padang Padang

If you brought your girlfriend or family along another option are tourist attractions. There’s shopping galore in Kuta, and in the mountains of Ubud, there’s an unbelievable outdoor marketplace, which offers arts and crafts of every make imaginable. If your feeling adventurous, you could go snorkeling, explore the monkey forest, or even experience a thrilling elephant ride.

Local Surf Check

For the inner carp in you, there’s a golf course in Sanur to practice your chip shots.
You can always do a little bit of everything, it’s all up to you. After all, in Bali, the choices are endless, much like the surf. Speaking of which, the locations and breaks are diverse, and there are many options on hand. You could shred Canguu, a sand reef combination with wedges on tap built for silly punts. Then again you might feel like mixing it up at Kuta beach, where you can sample some pretty fun beach breaks and hit on hot European surfer girls at the same time.

Ya Im from Germany. Can you teach me surfing?

On the Bukit there are a few spots to choose from, namely Bingin, Padang Padang, and Uluwatu, all classic waves that will surely test your courage and breath holding skills. Newly discovered breaks on the Sanur side of the island can hold some serious waves when conditions are shot elsewhere.

Bukit Boyz- DP, EG, ND

Bali is a great central location for heading out into the various wave rich islands Indonesia. There’s a multitude of places to head, and depending on the swell, wind patterns, and your budget, there’s no shortage of choices. Favorites include; Lombok, Sumbawa, Mentawaii’s, and Sumatra, just to name a few. You could score, and you could just as easily get skunked, the risk is all part of the adventure. You might come back to Bali boasting to all your buddies of the perfect tubes you got at Lance’s Right, or just as easily return empty handed only to hear stories of double overhead tube’s at Padang Padang. It’s a roll of the dice.

Don't wanna miss out on this!

With all this being said, it’s easy to forget your place of privilege in such an impoverished, third world country. It doesn’t take long before you start bitching at a vendor over a purchase that may cost you a matter of dollars more. Any tourist with enough money to travel to Bali is wealthy in comparison to your average Balinese. What’s worse is that these hard-pressed people are steadily becoming poorer. This is largely due to an widespread loss of land, which is being sold dirt-cheap to foreign investors, who are grabbing up land with a quickness to build luxury villas for wealthy tourists.

To the Balinese, the chance of making a few hundred thousand dollars for their ancestral land is similar to dangling a T-bone steak in front of a starving Ethiopian. The quick payoff is far too enticing to pass up. What results, however, is the loss of land held by Balinese for generations, along with a loss of tradition and culture. Huge swaths of land once grazed upon by Water Buffalo and the vast rice paddies tended as a function of family tradition, are being leveled, turned into immense mansion complexes that the Balinese simply cannot afford.

Land like this is being bought up with the quickness

In simple terms, the Balinese are being bought off their land, unfairly enticed by foreign investors with deep pockets. This is happening at an alarming rate, and the growth is showing no signs of slowing. This reality is tragic to behold, as the gentle nature of the Balinese does not warrant such unjust treatment.

The best thing we, as surfers and visitors to the beautiful land of Bali can do to help is to spend our money there. Tourism is the driving force behind the prosperity of the Balinese, and by buying their trinkets, food, art, and services, we are helping them feed their families.
Bali is a wonderful place to visit, and if you decide to come, bring a respectful attitude, some gear to give away to the local groms before you leave, and a little extra spending money to tip your taxi driver, as he most likely needs it more than you.

FEATURED ARTIST- FJ ANDERSON

2008-09-13T10:52:00.000-07:00

Emerald Energy

The vision's one beholds while surfing are unforgettable. Throwing lips, of all shades of green and blue, pitch their curtains in stunning displays of form and beauty. Peering into the vortex of a barrelling wave, one can't help but become mesmerized by the sight. Being so close to the power of Mother Nature is exhilarating. Attempting to describe such experiences to outsiders is almost an impossible task. FJ Anderson, a twenty three year old Santa Cruz native, is using his superb artistic skills to convey such experiences to the public.

Black's Beach

FJ has a degree in Art from UCSC, and is working hard to establish his reputation as one of the premiere artistic talents in Santa Cruz. FJ's art is currently being displayed at Olita's Resturaunt on the Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, and he also has a website at http://www.fjartwork.com/. If you are a surfer, Santa Cruz local, or simply anyone who enjoys fine art check out FJ's amazing artwork ASAP!

Pitching

WHO DAT??? JESSE COLOMBO

2008-09-13T10:35:00.000-07:00

Colombo. Stroking the Corn

There’s a fine young man coming up out of the highly competitive Santa Cruz surf community. He’s a freckled faced fanatic with a penchant for towering tubes and altitude altering aerials. He’s Jesse Colombo, and you’d be hard pressed to encounter a single soul within the Santa Cruz surf scene not familiar with the kid’s enthusiasm and surf stoke. Lately Jesse has been expanding his presence beyond the limits of Santa Cruz county, traveling to remote destinations to capture images of his signature style in action. His hard work is paying off, and by flipping through any established surf magazine, you will see why. I recently caught up with Jesse to discuss life.

NK- I just want to tell you straight off that Santa Cruz just wouldn't be the same with out you, Jesse. This leads me to ask you what you think it is that makes Santa Cruz surfers such a unique family, and what it means to you to be a part of such a close knit crew of surfers on the come up?

JC-It s cool, having good surfers to grow up with is motivating to try harder. NK- Lets get some background info goin. When and how did you start surfing? JC- With some friends at 38th when I was 10 or 11

NK- You seem to know everyone in Santa Cruz, but is there an inner crew that you usually roll with?

JC- I like to roll with Bud, Rat, Kieran Horn cause we all golf and push each other in and out of the water. also some of the kids that are younger than me get me amped too

NK- I'm gonna name some of your favorite things. Discuss each as I read them-

-Airs-

JC- Hard, cool if done in moderation

-The Harbor-

JC-Scary, exciting, pushing yourself

-Girls-

JC-Yes Please

-Bud Freitas-

JC- Flake, ripper, A-D-D to a level I thought wasn’t possible

-Kooks-

JC- I’m the biggest one

NK- Whets your plans for the future? Are you gonna continue with the photo trips or begin to focus on competitive surfing?

JC- Both, a good result would feel nice though, I think, I’ve never made a heat

NK- How would you describe your relationship with the ocean?

JC- Bi-polar, all and all good though

NK- Any thoughts on the recent Great White Shark attack just south of Santa Cruz?

JC- Cant wait to bring Bud down there and make him surf, he loves sharks, super comfortable knowing they are around

NK- Any shout outs?

JC-Everyone, you all rip

Dress Rehearsal for his new childrens show, Colombo's Corner

SCHPOT CHECK!!! Mainland Mex

2008-09-13T10:28:00.001-07:00

On the Search in Mainland Mex. all photos Corey Wilson

For West Coast surfers desperate to get a fix of powerful, top-to-bottom waves, traveling to Hawaii, Indonesia, or Tahiti can prove costly and exhausting. Luckily there's always the option of heading down to our wave rich southern neighbor, Mexico.

Grinds

For those only familiar with the dry, temperate climate of Baja, Mainland Mexico is a completely different story, complete with lush jungles and extremely warm water temp's. The region is large, encompassing a number of states with hundreds of miles of surf able coastline.

Tequila Sunset

From peeling points to ridiculously round river mouths, Mainland Mexico has it all. Flights from California are relatively cheap, as are dining and lodging expenses. The people of Mexico may lack material wealth, yet make up for it in the richness of their culture and friendly attitudes. Miles and miles of untapped coastline leaves plenty of options for explorers searching for some adventure and solitude. Mainland Mexico serves as a great escape for any West Coast surfer looking for some cheap thrills.

Hay Muchos Tubos Aqui

Inside You

2008-09-11T18:27:00.000-07:00

Inside. photo-Wilson

I want to be inside you. Please let me in. I want to enter you, to join our bodies as one. I want to feel your curves, ride your currents. If you would let me, I would stay inside you forever. Once inside, time stands still, my senses numbed, overwhelmed by the immense pleasure you provide.

There have been others. Every one characterized by the same fleeting feeling of immeasurable bliss. Every time a unique experience, a different ride. Please let me slide in. Allow me to navigate your inside in it’s entirety, all the while stroking you gently, slowing my pace ever so slightly to adjust to your unpredictable rhythms.

Should I fail to tame you, the fault is mine. But that’s why I love you, barrel. Ultimately, it is up to me to see our union to completion. Therefore I must analyze your ever changing moods, plotting my next entrance. I want to be inside you. Oh, glorious tube, please let me in.

Featured Artist: Corey Wilson

2008-09-11T10:54:00.000-07:00

Corn-Nut, in his element

Featured Artist- Corey Wilson. Age-19. Hometown-Santa Cruz, California.

Corey Wilson is quickly ascending the ranks as one of Santa Cruz's most skilled photographers. Growing up on Santa Cruz's East Side, Corey had always loved the water, and spent much of his grommethood immersed in the surf found at Sunny Cove and Santa Maria's. It wasn't until high school, however, that Corey combined his love for the ocean and photography into a career. It's amazing to see how much Corey's work has progressed, and how quickly at that. He currently is having a great year, with tons of contributions to Surfshot Magazine and Mundo Rad. Corey's got a huge future in front of him so do yourself a favor and check out some of his stunning images at- www.coreywilsonphotography.com

Darshan Gooch, Puerto Escondido '08 -photo-Wilson

Question of the Day!

2008-09-11T10:48:00.000-07:00

Henards creepin for a bargain at the Flea

QUESTION-What do you do to keep busy during the flat summer days here in Santa Cruz?

Homer Henard- "Scribe aroud the Sk8 Park. Hit the flea market..Look 4 a twinnie ....Cross training is a Mandatory!...L8night Ab workouts are a must as well...Theres always waves in the bay area if you know where to go!!! Obvys"

Slater....We need you!!!!

2008-09-10T14:00:00.000-07:00

Every classroom has one. The obsessed know-it-all who frantically thrusts his hand high into the air whenever the teacher poses a question. Arm erect, quivering with anticipation, nerds like this thrive off showing their cranial competency, sometimes even proving the teacher wrong. Sharing a classroom with a braniac like this can inspire you to put down your Gameboy and step up your game, if only to prove the Einstein wrong only once or twice.
This response makes perfect sense. When competing with someone whose experience and skill is on a higher level than your own, you tend to bring up your own effort and performance, as the bar has been raised. This could be said about the surfers competing against Kelly Slater on this year’s World Championship Tour. Slater is the aging vet whose untouchable talent and freakish skill just never seems to cease. He’s like the know-it- all in class who everyone wants to prove wrong, who, instead of pimples and a pocket protector, sports a bald head and white wetsuits.
Take this year’s Quiksilver Pro on Australia‘s Gold Coast, which went down in rippable three-to four-foot Snapper Rocks. Kelly was crushing his opponents, surfing with such swagger that he seemed to be almost toying with his opponents. Case in point: Kelly’s quarterfinal heat with Andy Irons. With only a few minutes remaining, Kelly had AI on the ropes, needing a combination of 9.0 plus rides. AI, despite putting on an inspired performance, buckled under Slater’s unstoppable onslaught, and had to settle for an =5th place result. To rub it in, Slater took off switch, proceeding to link up a number of backside maneuvers straight through to Rainbow Bay, drawing huge cheers from the crowd.
This type of confident dominance is exactly what the boys on tour need. Something tells me that AI was watching Kelly’s switch victory lap, and you can bet that this has fueled his competitive fire for their next encounter. Like him or not, Kelly blows up whenever he dons a contest singlet, and he similarly keeps the standard hovering above most’s heads, painfully out of reach.
Unlike his untouchable dominance of the 1990’s however, Kelly is going to have his work cut out for him to remain surfing’s gold standard. The young prospects on tour on tour are fired up, and they have made their intentions clear. Blistering performances by the likes of Bede Durbridge, Ace Buchan, Jeremey Flores, and Adriano De Souza are keeping the favorites on the defense, showing their determination to shake up the old guard.
Then there’s the Dane and Jordy show. Both young men regularly put on stunning displays of technical, powerful, and radical surfing, performances which undoubtedly leave the judges scratching their heads as how to score this new, balls-out approach to contest surfing. It’s the dream of everyone on tour to take out Kelly in a one-on-one heat, and just by being there he is creating an atmosphere that pushes everyone to attempt the unthinkable and go for broke. In turn, professional surfing has become more exciting to watch. Kelly remains the man everyone loves to hate. We hate to see him casually win everything he enters, but at the same time it’s impossible not to love the incredible show he puts on. As a fan of radical surfing, I beg you Kelly, go for 10. Until someone steps up to take your place as Boss Hog, pro surfing needs you around to keep the level

Want To Be a Part of the Froth?

2008-09-10T13:49:00.000-07:00

Everybody froths. From your 80 year old grandma getting pumped on the latest in denture technology, to your 3 year old cousin amping on a sticky new discovery underneath the sofa. Part of the mission of FrothSchpot, is to let you express your froth. Send us your stories, photos, art, opinions, and whatever the fuck else you wanna share. We'll try our best to include your creative contribution's to the site. So what are you waiting for? Start Frothing! email contributions to nealdude@calcentral.com

I Love Lakey's

2008-09-10T12:59:00.000-07:00

Sometimes just getting there is half the fun. Well that is if you consider hectic, scrambled, stress-filled journey's fun. Surf trips are a roll of the dice, and sometimes all the planning, preparation, and supposed foresight in the world can quickly unravel into a race against time and all odds. Enduring such setbacks and hardships makes the pay off that much sweeter, as me, Matt Myers, Kyle Thiermann and TJ Mikus found on a recent trip to Sumbawa.

The crew had been enjoying a leisurely vacation in Bali, eating great, enjoying the sunny weather, and surfing at our own leisure. One day, however, we got an opportunity to experience a change of scenery.We spoke with resident photographer Hamish Humphrey's and his swell reports and inside knowledge led him to invite us on a short trip to Sumbawa, an island located about an hour plane ride from Bali.

From the airport it would onlybe a two hour drive to, Lakey Peak, our base camp. This news excited me greatly, as I had heard numerous stories of the perfect waves found therein. We were all frothing at a chance to surf the Peak, a welcome change to the locales of Bali, which had lost their initial charmand intrigue. Hamish told us that we could buy our tickets right before theplane took off, and it would be a simple process. We retired the nightbefore, hoping for a deep slumber to prepare us for our long day oftraveling the next day.

It turns out Kyle had ordered some fish that had been prepared incorrectly at dinner that night. He was up all night, wretching and dry heaving, with a horrible stomach ache. Matt had to share a room with him and was similarly kept up all night by the painful sounds of Kyle's traumatic food poisoning. We set out for the airport, hopeful that after we got to Sumbawa and enjoyed some liquid therapy, Kyle would bounce back. Never the less, he sat by the window. We arrived at the airport to an unsettling realization. The ATM machine was out of money. We scrambled frantically, trying to scrape up enough funds between all of us to get us in the air. It was useless. With time ticking away, we rushed to the ticket counter to see if they took credit cards.After much conversation, they gave in to our request and Kyle threw down his credit card on the counter. We were in.

We had ten minutes until the plane took off when we made it through baggage check. We raced up the many flights of stairs, sweating and cursing our badluck, panting like sun baked canines. Our last stop before the plane wasthe metal detector. Five minutes to go. TJ had been lucky enough to forget his giant Swiss army knife stashed away in his backpack, and the metal detector went haywire. Three minutes to go. The Security Guard started rambling in Balinese, but luckily Hamish spoke the language. He found outthat the knife would have to be checked in back at the ticket counter. Two minutes. Hamish took matters into his own hands and rushed full speed down the escalator like a cheetah on the plains of Africa, and returned in a matter of seconds, bearing a thumbs up sign anda wide grin. One minute. We jetted down outside and made our way to the airplane.

Some kind of official was pacing by the doors of the plane, glaring at his watch in frustration. Apparently someone had let the crew know that we were getting there late. He led us aboard and we all let out asigh of relief. Kyle was puffing and didn't look so good. We had made it though, and the feeling was immense. The flight was relatively painless, and we got to Sumbawa in under an hour. From the airport, we hired a driver to get us to Lakey's, and we set out on our two hour drive. The scenery was awesome, rolling green hills which gave way to windy mountainous roads, dotted with lean-to huts of the most precarious builds.

We arrived at Lakey's sweating and longing for lunch, anap, and late afternoon surf. By this time Kyle looked a little bitbetter, the color slowly returning to his face. The workers at the Hotel we were staying at took our bags, and we followed them to our rooms. Just minutes later, Matt came to the realization that we had left our boardstraps with the driver. We wouldn't ever see him again, and the straps were necessary for getting our boards back home. Matt rushed outside and found a local with a motorbike. He paid him five dollars, jumped on the back of his motorbike and they tore off, leaving a giant cloud of dust.

What ensued was a high speed, highly dangerous chase, with Matt clinging for life to the driver,who was laughing maniacally through the whole ordeal. Luckily, they were able to hail the driver and retrieve the straps, but by the look of Matt's face upon his return, he had almost died a number of times. With the stress of travel behind us, we sat down to a delicious meal of strawberry milkshakes and cheese pizza, looking out directly into Lakey Peak, which was firing on all cylinders. A new life and sense of purpose was regained by all, and by this point Kyle was looking healthy as ever.Something tells me the prospect of stand up tubes had something to do withthis rebirth. We got our boards ready, lubed up with massive amounts of sunscreen, and made our way out to the Peak.

The Peak is located a short reef walk offshore, and the difficulty of the journey depends on the tide, and how much water is on the reef. Luckily, itwas high tide, so we didn't have to subject our tender feet to its sharpand urchin filled bottom. We made it out there in record time, and proceeded to trade off waves for the remainder of the day. Being the lone goofy footer of the trip, I was more than happy to split the peak with my comrades, making up for all the years growing up within the right hand point breaks of Santa Cruz. We all came in delirious with excitement, relating the details of our bestwaves, and the number of seconds we stayed in the tube. It was all time,and we had four days left! We slept well that night, our deep slumberfilled with dreams of aqua blue, stand up tubes.

The Peak at Lakey's is every surfer's dream. It's basically a playground. The right has a steep drop, in which heaving lips serve up aproper barrel section. After getting spit out of the tube, the waves bends right at you, with a wedgey ramp section at the end. The boy's were loving the chance to work on their front side tube riding skills, and it seemed that every time I looked, one of them was blasting ridiculously huge, rotated airs.

The left earned a special place in my heart. The first section is a somewhat mellow drop, which allows ample time to set your rail, stick your hand in the wave, and slow your pace for the oncoming slabbing second section. This second section draws heavily off shallow reef, and proceeds to keg out for a number of yards. After the barrel section, the wave continues its course, providing steep lips, perfect for blasting fins out turns and power carves. I was losing my mind at the chance to surf such perfect lefts, and after every session my legs were burning from the long rides.

The set up at our hotel was epic. Unlike the stressful bustle of Bali, Lakey's is a peaceful and quiet location. Every day after surfing, all wewould do is lounge by the pool, eat delicious food, and recharge our batteries for our next surf. It was great to be able to relax casually with no obligations, a blissful feeling that was relished by all. The locals were classic. Every day we had a host of eager dudes riding our coat tails, begging endlessly for stickers and offering us motor bike rides to nearby breaks. I reckon stickers are more valuable to them than gold! Once you gave out one, a swarm of his buddies would surround you, hands out stretched, psyching for the chance to get some of their own. At the end of our trip, TJ thought it would be funny to throw a stack in the air and see what kind of chaos ensued. The result was hilarious. Grown men,scratching and clawing at each other, rolling on the ground wrestling in the dirt, skinning their knees in order to get their share.

The local groms were ripping the peak as well, and they were amped to share their break with us, for which we're all extremely grateful. Although it started a little bumpy, the trip was a success. We scored insane barrels, made friends with kind locals, and ate delicious food. It felt as though we were in paradise, and we took advantage of our time there,surfing at least three times a day. When it came time to leave, we were all saddened, as Lakey's had served us so well during our stay. All good things must come to an end though, and we returned to Bali, invigorated with the excitement we had experienced, and delighted by the friends we made. It may have been a strenuous journey, but proved a small price to pay for such a memorable experience.

GET FROTHED!

2008-09-10T12:41:00.000-07:00

What's up nerds? It's obvious that you have no life, as you have found yourself in the Froth Zone. And what is froth? Its that shiny white spittle that foams from one's mouth (ex:rabid dog), which indicates a heightened sense of excitement, resulting in a loss of control of one's salivary glands. Froth can also be found in the ocean, the end result of large powerful surf, or on the sidewalk, dripping from a styrofoam Starbucks cup, after it's hipster owner was knocked out for humming a My Chemical Romance tune. This site is dedicated to grooming the froth beards of free-thinking individual's who enjoy extreme shredding and extreme opinions. Welcome to the site, hope you enjoy, and as always, keep frothing!